Trans-Texas
Rio Grande Valley,
South Padre Island Pelagic, Edwards Plateau, Davis Mountains, Big
Bend National Park
June 1-11 2002
by Roger Wolfe
Soquel, CA
When my birding buddies Greig Crenna and Mike Sylvia proposed
this trip to me my first thought was that June might be a little
late to be visiting Texas. Some of the birds would be nesting
others would be post nesting and no longer singing. The heat
might be raging at the onset of summer. As it turned out this was
a wonderful time to bird Texas. Interestingly we encountered very
few other birders and when we did they were folks whose path we
had already crossed. This was my third trip to Texas. Last year I
had stayed in the eastern part of the state to witness the spring
migration through the upper coast. I had visited the Rio Grande
Valley back in 1991 in early April. This trip was to be more
ambitious in that we would be covering a lot more ground driving
across almost half of this big state. In ten days we logged 181
species.
June 1
I arrived in Harlingen via Southwest Airlines (love those frequent
flier rewards). After checking in to my motel and getting my
bearings I headed out in search of two target species I wanted to
get out of the way before my friend arrives in two days. Following
the directions in the ABA Guide to the Birds of the Rio Grande
Valley I headed for McKelvey Park in Harlingen. As it turned out
5:30 pm was a little early to be looking for the Red-crowned
Parrots I had hoped to see. So I headed for the nearby town of San
Benito. Behind the Walmart on Business 77 is a grove of palms
frequented by GREEN PARAKEETS. I parked and introduced
myself to another birder waiting there with a camera and long
lens. Was pleased to meet Bill Clark author of the Peterson Guide:
Hawks and A Field Guide to the Raptors of Europe, The Middle East
and North Africa. Within minutes the parakeets were obliging,
flying about in small groups and beginning to gather for the
evening roost in the palms.
We spent some time viewing the birds and Bill shot some photos
and then offered to show me a good place near his home that is
good for the parrots. Turned out to be McKelvey Park, the time was
now 7 pm and within a few minutes we had a pair of RED-CROWNED
PARROTS fly overhead. Enjoyed dinner with Bill at nearby
Pecos Pete's Mexican Food. It's one of my favorite things about
birding trips, meeting other birders and enjoying instant rapport
in many cases. The birder's world is a small one it seems
sometimes. Turns out Bill will be along for the pelagic trip I've
signed on for in two days.
June 2
I rise early in the morning and make the one hour drive north on
77 to visit the stakeout FERRUGINOUS PYGMY OWL at El Canelo
Ranch just north of Raymondville. I shell out $35 bucks to bird
the ranch and make the owl tick in the ABA area. I walk into the
backyard behind the B&B and the owl appears immediately, poking
its head out of the nest hole. The mate comes in soon after
clutching a House Sparrow that isn't much smaller than the owl and
is harassed by a pair of HOODED ORIOLES. Here as well are
several CAVE SWALLOWS nesting in the patio area. Other
birds at El Canelo are EASTERN BLUEBIRDS, GULL-BILLED TERN,
WILD TURKEY, VERMILION FLYCATCHER, COUCH'S KINGBIRD and CATTLE
EGRET.
Back in the car the driving begins and two hours later I'm
driving into Laguna Atascosa National Wildlife Refuge.The visitors
center is closed as of May 31 and the place is devoid of people.
At the trickle beside the visitor center I pick up a couple of
GREEN JAYS, PYRRHULOXIA, GREAT KISKADEE and NORTHERN CARDINALS.
It's been a dry year in Texas and all the ponds and flats are dust
bowls without any birds to be seen. Driving along the 15 mile
Bayside Drive loop I scrutinize all the power poles hoping for
Aplomado Falcons, I know they're not countable as they are being
reintroduced, would like to see one in tha ABA area all the same
but will have no luck with this species today. Along the Laguna
Madre shoreline there are birds-REDDISH and GREAT EGRETS,
LITTLE BLUE and TRI-COLORED HERONS, WHITE IBIS, ROSEATE SPOONBILL
and the best looks ever at an OSPREY with very sizable fish
in its talons. Overhead I spy a soaring WHITE-TAILED HAWK.
Other raptors seen along the loop are HARRIS' HAWK and
several CRESTED CARACARA. VERDIN, LARK SPARROW and
LONG-BILLED THRASHER are also seen.
Back on the road I make my way over the causeway to South Padre
Island. Reminds me a little of North Carolina's Outer Banks but
more developed like a spring break strip mall. At the Convention
Center there is a Warbler Rest Stop. A grouping of shrubs with a
water trickle has become a birding hotspot of late with a
Flame-colored Tanager seen there recently. But Texas birders are
excited on this day with the incongruous presence of a Common
Redpoll on the island. At the convention center wetland I see
BLUE-WINGED TEAL, COMMON MOORHEN, BLACK-NECKED STILT and a
RUDDY TURNSTONE. In the shrubs at the rest stop there is a lot
of activity with LEAST FLYCATCHER, EASTERN PEWEE, and
EASTERN KINGBIRD present. Early to bed for I'm early to rise
for tomorrow's pelagic out into the Gulf.
June 3
I meet the group on the dock at 5:15 am. This pelagic was put
together by the World Bird Center. I'm surprised to meet a number
of birders I know from previous birding trips, once again the
birder's world seems a small one. On the water before the sunrise
aboard the Osprey I quickly discover just how spoiled I am coming
from the Monterey Bay area where we can get into deep waters
rapidly thanks to a near shore submarine canyon making the pelagic
bird life abundant. Once we leave the ROYAL and CASPIAN TERNS
behind we see no other birds for the next three hours. Finally Jim
Booker calls out BIRD! and we all get on a tern sitting on a
piece of floating lumber-its a BRIDLED TERN. Soon after
this we start seeing our first of many BAND-RUMPED PETRELS.
Then nothing for a couple of hours and then another flurry of
activity with three BLACK TERNS, gulls on the water turn
out to be a trio of FRANKLIN'S GULLS. We finally see some
marine mammals-three ATLANTIC SPOTTED DOLPHINS leap out of
the water in synchrony and a pair of PELAGIC BOTTLENOSE
DOLPHINS. A MASKED BOOBY approaches the boat and flies
right over us chattering. Six hours out we're surprised by a flock
of CATTLE EGRETS this far offshore. Heading back to port we
come upon another tern and this one is a SOOTY TERN. After
twelve hours at sea our last bird of the day appears as we arrive
back at South Padre Island a MAGNIFICENT FRIGATEBIRD soars
above the jetty. I make the drive back to McAllen and meet my
friend Greig Crenna from Cambridge, Mass. at the Motel 6.
June 4
It's nice to have a birding buddy along and Greig is psyched. We
are on our way to the Brownsville NEXRAD radar near the airport at
first light. We have only to wait a few minutes to have a nesting
pair of TAMAULIPAS CROWS in our bins. Croaking like frogs
they fly overhead and land and we watch them engage in a bit of
allopreening. Delightful couple. Our next stop is on the way to
Boca Chica beach which Greig has heard is good for BOTTERI'S
SPARROW. We work the roadside and hear a couple but it take a
little more effort to get looks but eventually our effort pays
off. Then we're off to Sabal Palm Grove where a MASKED DUCK
has been reported. At the visitor center we read that the bird was
last seen the day before so we head to that spot and set up our
scopes. We spend about a half hour here scoping the resaca. Greig
decides to look around a bit. After a while he notifies me via FRS
radio that he has the duck in his scope. I grab all my stuff and
run for the photo blind. I take the long way as it turns out but
when I get there the bird is preening and still in the scope!
Bonus bird for our trip. Here at Sabal we also see
GROOVE-BILLED ANI, BUFF-BELLIED HUMMINGBIRD, OLIVE SPARROW, PLAIN
CHACHALACA with young, RINGED KINGFISHER, LEAST GREBE,
WHITE-TIPPED DOVE and WHITE-EYED VIREO.
Its been a great morning but there's more in store for us at
Santa Ana National Wildlife Refuge. Lots of exciting stuff has
been reported as of late at Willow Lake so without delay we head
there. Immediately upon arriving at Willow we hear a TROPICAL
PARULA, we find the female first but it takes a while to find
the singing male up in the canopy. Hanging from a tree we find a
large hanging nest which we focus on and after a fifteen minute
wait in flies a female ROSE-THROATED BECARD! Another bonus.
A melodious singer around the corner turns out to be a
CLAY-COLORED ROBIN. I should point out that it seems
YELLOW-BILLED CUCKOO are everywhere we go.
Back at the Motel 6 its time for a siesta before heading to
Bentsen State Park for a bit of night birding. From the boat ramp
on the resaca we see an unseasonal WOOD STORKI in the
shallows. Overhead we see several pairs of MUSCOVY DUCKS
flying (whose origin may be questionable)and a single FULVOUS
WHISTLING DUCK, which is a treat after seeing so many
BLACK-BELLIED WHISTLING DUCKS over the past few days at
various locales. Finally its dark enough and we drive around the
loop until we see the eyeshine of a PAURAQUE which flies
up next to the car and lands affording nice looks. A very
memorable day of birding comes to a close.
June 5
This morning we meet Jim Booker at the entrance to Bentsen. I know
Jim from his days at the Big Sur Ornithology Lab. These days he's
doing point counts for the World Birding Center going in at
Bentsen. We start off helping with the point counts by ear, and
then we bird the trailer loop where a Yellow-green Vireo was
reported two days ago but we have no luck this time. Greig and I
head for the Rio Grande trail where another vireo was reported.
Suddenly Greig yells for me to look up and right overhead we have
a HOOK-BILLED KITE fly over. All right! These guys are
nesting at this time and have been pretty secretive. Booker hasn't
seen one in several weeks so we are feeling lucky. Along the
trail we also see ALTAMIRA ORIOLE, BROWN-CRESTED FLYCATCHERS
and once again run into birders Michael Tarachon and Merce
Dostalet from Rockport, TX whose paths we've crossed twice now- on
the pelagic and at Santa Ana yesterday. At one point we hear a
nearby GREY HAWK, it sounds quite close but we never do get
a look at it.
Greig and I have a bit of driving ahead of us so we bid our
friends good-bye and start heading upriver. Our next stop is Santa
Margarita Ranch where we scope the trees hoping for Red-billed
Pigeons but only see several HARRIS' HAWKS and have a
SWAINSON'S HAWK fly over. Our next stop at Salineno produces a
GREEN KINGFISHER and three immigrants swimming across the
river with plastic bags held overhead. Zapata was a wasted stop
as they have bulldozed the area behind the library that
White-collared Seedeaters used to frequent.
At San Ygnacio someone has a funky little "nature reserve" set up
with handwritten signs, makeshift feeders and baths. We pay the
obligatory $3 to bird here along the river and find a
WHITE-COLLARED SEEDEATER singing right way and are able to
locate it. We bird the area still trying for Red-billed Pigeon but
looks like we're going to dip on this one. We continue on up route
83 two and a half more hours to Uvalde and check into the Best
Western.
Just a note here regarding the weather. It was hot, usually
right around 90 and the humidity high but the daily wind was been
a blessing. The time we spent in the Rio Grande Valley was never
ghastly or unbearable. I'd was worried about the heat but it
wasn't all that bad.
June 6
We're up before dawn and on our way from Uvalde to Lost Maples
State Park. We're surprised to see hills looming in the distance
as most of Texas is level land. Soon we are on the Edwards Plateau
and its a relief to be in the woods. Oaks and maples abound, we
cross a number of crystal clear rivers, it is quite lovely. We
arrive at Lost Maples around 7:30 am and head out on the East
trail from the parking lot. I've been worried that finding
Golden-cheeked Warblers would be difficult at this late date as
they would be post breeding and no longer singing. The first bird
we encounter this morning is an INDIGO BUNTING followed by
CAROLINA CHICKADEE, BLACK AND WHITE WARBLER and EASTERN
PHOEBE. BELL'S VIREO are abundant. We've been walking about
45 minutes when at last I spot our first GOLDEN-CHEEKED WARBLER,
the first of many family groups we will see. We keep a watchful
eye on the vultures and our vigilance pays off when we see a
ZONE-TAILED HAWK. Further up the trail this same bird soars
only 20 feet overhead allowing spectacular views, those yellow
legs really stand out. At the top of the trail before we begin
our descent we encounter several FIELD SPARROWS singing on
territory. I don't know it at the time but this bird will turn out
to be my 600th ABA area bird. At the bottom of the East trail
where it intersects the West trail in the area of the ponds we
spend a good amount of time trying to ferret out a Black-capped
Vireo but we never do hear or see one.
We dine for lunch at Neal's Lodge near Concan and then get
permission to bird on their property. Here we see
YELLOW-BREASTED CHAT, SUMMER TANAGER, BLACK-THROATED SPARROW
but still no vireo. Back at our hotel we formulate a plan to visit
Kerr Wildlife Management Area. We would have liked to visit
Kickapoo Cavern State Park but it is currently closed. The chinese
food in Uvalde is good. Around sunset I step outside to see that
it is raining and see a pair of LESSER NIGHTHAWKS plying
the skies in the company of some CHIMNEY SWIFTS.
June 7
Up and at it before first light. Kerr is a bit out of our way but
not too far. Driving along we see a number of african antelopes
and other strange wildlife in the pastures alongside the highway.
We turn into the Bobcat Pasture and wait at the gate until 8 am
when fortunately someone comes along and tells us this is not
where we want to be. Its a few miles further. At the entry is a
sign in sheet and kiosk with a map of the best places to look for
the vireo. We follow these directions and as soon as we exit the
car we hear it singing. It take a bit of time to zero in on it but
soon we have it in our bins-BLACK-CAPPED VIREO. We spend a
bit of time with the bird and soon are treated to viewing an
adult feeding a fledgling. Also here we have a brilliant male
PAINTED BUNTING.
Time to hit the highway across a fair chunk of this huge state
on I 10. It takes around four and a half hours to get from Kerr to
the Davis Mountains. Put the car on cruise control and load a few
CDs into the player, there's not a lot ot see crossing the Pecos.
Once we reach the town of Ft. Davis we spend an hour trying to
find the location in the ABA guide for a pair of nesting Common
Black Hawks. NOTE: THE DIRECTIONS IN THE LATEST EDITION OF A
BIRDER'S GUIDE TO THE RIO GRANDE VALLEY ARE WRONG. Do not go
.8 mi. northeast on 17 but do go .8 mi. west on 118 (towards Davis
Mountains State Park)and park at the litter barrel sign and look
in the tall cottonwood trees. We had truly great views of the
COMMON BLACK HAWKS on the nest, soaring overhead and perched
on the boulders across the road. At one point a WESTERN
KINGBIRD attacked one of the hawks and actually landed on its
back while both are in flight and proceeded to hammer away on the
poor raptor. We spent a couple of hours in the evening around dusk
searching for Montezuma Quail at the state park but they haven't
been seen here since April, the recent rains have dispersed the
birds away from water drips and feeding stations thus we are out
of luck on this one it seems.
In the evening around 9pm there is a knock on the door. Mike
Sylvia and his son Matt have arrived via El Paso. I met both Mike
and Greig a couple of years back while on a visit to the Pribilof
Islands. Since then they have visited me on the Monterey Bay in
California and I have visited them in Massachussets. This time
we've met in the middle. At one point in the trip I said something
a bit off the wall to Matt and he asked his dad, "Where did you
meet this guy?" Mike responded, "On a little tiny island in the
middle of the Bering Sea." Just the truth.
June 8
We drive the roads in Davis State park before sunrise and then up
118 to the McDonald Observatory but we never do see any Montezuma
Quail. We add CASSIN'S KINGBIRD to our trip list as well
as CANYON TOWHEE, SCOTT'S ORIOLE, WESTERN SCRUB JAY, SAY'S
PHOEBE, HEPATIC TANAGER, WESTERN BLUEBIRD and BLACK-HEADED
GROSBEAK. We have our first real breakfast of the trip at the
Indian Lodge in the park which looks very nice and afterward load
the cars for the trip to Big Bend National Park.
Somehow we manage to lose track of each other traveling as we
are in two separate cars. We finally manage to hook up in the
parking lot at the at the store in the Chisos Basin. If you visit
Big Bend I strongly recommend staying here. Aside from the fact it
is visually quite lovely it is also quite a bit cooler than other
parts of the park also you are in proximity to the best birding
trails. We rented a stone cabin at Chisos Lodge and it was quite
nice. They say it sleeps six but there are three double beds.
Greig made reservations about six months in advance.
Once we're all checked into our cabin we hike the Window trail
in the early evening before sunset. Our first VARIED BUNTING
appears a short ways down the trail from the campground. CANYON
and ROCK WRENS are plentiful along this trail. Our real quarry
on this hike is further down the trail almost to the end. Here we
stake out some blooming agaves and sure enough a female LUCIFER
HUMMINGBIRD appears. The view out the window at the end of the
trail is worth the hike in itself. Back at our cabin we are
haunted throughout the night by two ELF OWLS. At one point
in the early morning around first light we hear one right outside
the cabin. Greig rushes out to get a look but it turns out to be
some guy playing a tape!
June 8
Today is the day of the big hike to go after Colima Warbler. We
opt to go up the Laguna Meadows trail which I would recommend as
it is in shaded by a peak for much of the morning. We left the
cabin around 6 am and we were in the shade until just befor
reaching the summit of the climb. On the way up we see MEXICAN
JAYS and decide this might just be the SPOTTED TOWHEE
capital of the world as they are ubiquitous along the trail. About
45 minutes out we hear a singing BLACK-CHINNED SPARROW and
are able to locate it above the trail and I am happy to finally
tick this nemesis of mine. Five minutes later another singer in
the top of a pine is our first COLIMA WARBLER perched right
out in the open! Two lifers in five minutes doesn't happen very
often anymore.
At the top of the climb up we have even better looks at the
sparrow and then nice comparative looks at a BROAD-TAILED
HUMMINGBIRD harassing a BLACK-CHINNED HUMMINGBIRD.
In the vicinity of Laguna Meadows we hear and see a single
CRISSAL THRASHER. At Boot Springs we have lunch is the
company of some very tame Mexican Jays. We spend some time birding
this area and come upon quite a few more Colima Warblers as well
as a BLUE-TRHOATED HUMMINGBIRD, the mexican race of
HUTTON'S VIREO and CORDILLERAN FLYCATCHER. On the hike
down I have a near miss involving a rattlesnake. I hear and see it
just before my foot lands on it as it crosses the trial in front
of me. I manage an awkward leap over it, fortunately it wasn't
coiled up or it would have had me! Our day is a lucky one, a cloud
shades our way back to the basin. We had been concerned about the
heat on this long day of hiking but ended up being quite
comfortable.
June 9
This will be my last birding day before heading back home to the
Monterey Bay. Mike, Matt and Greig will be driving on to spend a
few days in Arizona before ending their trip out west. Mike and
Greig are still in need of Gray Vireo. They even hiked the Window
trail again last evening after our long 10 mile hike up to Laguna
Meadows. Fortunately I saw this bird only last year in the Grand
Canyon so I am content to sit on the verandah, sip a cold one and
let the birds come to me. So today we hit the window trail once
again. Mike has been told by some birders familiar with the area
that the birds are there and responsive to taped calls so this
time we carry a portable CD and speakers. This is a nice trail
especially in the cool morning hours. We see again many of the
same birds, we hike beyond the Window itself stopping occasionally
to play the song of the Gray Vireo but get no response. On the way
back we stop at the same flowering agaves where we had seen the
female LUCIFER HUMMINGBIRD earlier in hopes of seeing a
male. We have a seat on the rocks along the dry stream bed and see
the female once again when we hear a singing GRAY VIREO.
Mike and I look at each other, "That's it!" Mike sees the bird in
some scrub a ways off and then he plays the song and the bird
comes right in and lands in a dead tree overhead bursting into
song. Mike is one happy guy seeing his nemesis bird so clear and
close.
We drive around the park to explore and do a bit of birding but
it is a lot hotter out of the basin. The external thermometer on
the car reaches a peak of 112 degrees fahrenheit near Rio Grande
Village. Without any target birds here I prefer the air
conditioned car. We were supposed to check out of our stone cabin
and into the motor lodge but when we inquire about another night
at the cabin we are told another cabin is available due to a last
minute cancellation. First though, we have to check out of the one
we're in. Well this seems like a bit of a hassle and we complain a
bit. We are told that this particular cabin we will be checking
into has the best view of any room in all of Texas. Cabin #103
looks right down the canyon through the Window with the desert on
the horizon. And get this, tonight there will be a partial solar
eclipse at sunset and the sun will go downs right in the Window!
As we sit out on our verandah taking it all in folks come by and
congratulate us on getting cabin 103. Turns out you have to
reserve this place a year in advance and here we've lucked into it
on the night of an eclipse! Incredible.
June 10
In the morning we bid good-byes until the next time. I drive to
Midland which takes about 3 1/2 hours for my Southwest flight
home. In the first two hours of driving at 75 mph I see only
three other cars.