February 3-14, 2006 by Roger Wolfe Introduction: A few years ago
after my grandmother passed on I received a check from my mother for a couple
of thousand dollars with a note attached that read, “Have fun with this.” I
squirreled that money away and added a bit to it now and then until I had
amassed enough to attain my goal for my fiftieth year on the planet- a long
dreamed trip to In addition to the
money I endeavored to accrue enough frequent flyer miles using my American
Airlines credit card so that we could make the long flight from
In that the trip
was not a clean up type trip that emphasized only birding I was still able to
see 250 new species even though I bit my tongue many times rather than
stopping the vehicle. Many birds went unseen in order to appease my traveling
companions who were all good friends who had traveled together before but non
birders. (Although I bet they’d dispute that claim!) Besides the birds I
had come to see the greatest accumulations of mammals to be seen on earth
since the Pleistocene. Feb. 4 We arrived in
We would be flying
to Our four hour tour
stretched into six and I ended up breaking my previous record for the most
new birds seen in a single day by 3 amassing 50 ticks. The list includes: COMMON OSTRICH, CARDINAL WOODPECKER, BLACK
KITE, MALACHITE KINGFISHER, ABDIM’S STORK, HAMERKOP, LITTLE BEE-EATER, BLUE-NAPED
MOUSEBIRD, AFRICAN BLACK SWIFT, EURASIAN MARSH HARRIER, BLACK-CHESTED SNAKE
EAGLE, LESSER and GREY KESTREL, PYGMY
FALCON, HADADA IBIS, MARABOU STORK, PIED CROW, BRUBRU, GREY BACKED,
LONG-TAILED AND COMMON FISCAL SHRIKES, PIED and ISABELLINE WHEATERS,
WHITE-BROWED SPARROW WEAVER, RED-CHEEKED CORDONBLEU, and PURPLE GRENADIER. Long-tailed Fiscal The highlight of From the mini-van
safari vehicle we saw several types of antelopes: WILDEBEEST, HARTEBEEST,
ELAND, TOPI, ORIBI, REEDBUCK, COMMON WATERBUCK and CAPE BUFFALO. COMMON ZEBRAS were
numerous as were MAASAI GIRAFFES. We got lucky and saw our first three
AFRICAN LIONS napping in the shade. We headed back to
the Hilton for lunch and a brief nap before meeting our driver for the trip
back to the airport. The flight from We were met at
Feb. 5 We are awake before
dawn for an early departure from KIA Lodge. We breakfast as the sun rises and
the dawn chorus of unfamiliar birds beckons. I am excited at the prospect of
seeing new bird families on this trip. I’ve put together a list of 33 new
families I have a solid chance at seeing. When it is finally light enough to
begin birding I find my first new bird for the day; a BEAUTIFUL SUNBIRD. Next is
a bird which we will see a thousand times over and thus give it the nickname
of Superb Trash Bird, its real name is appropriate. The SUPERB STARLING is quite lovely albeit ubiquitous. Beautiful Sunbird Our group is in the
parking area ready to go and as we pile into the minivan I see a small flock
of WHITE-BROWED COUCALS. Then it’s
off to the Arusha airport for our morning flight to
the The flight is a
memorable one; the sight of Maasai Bomas below, the flight over Ngorongoro
and the Serengeti is spectacular. After a couple of landings to drop off and
pick up passengers we arrive at the Seronera
Airstrip where we are met by our guide for the next 9 days. Baltazari-John Lyakurwa or BJ. Now I can begin
birding in earnest, my small digital voice recorder is indispensable. Say what you will
about car birding but on safari you have no choice. To venture out of the
vehicle you enter the food chain and risk being run over by a Cape Buffalo or
perhaps eaten by a lion. LILAC-BREASTED ROLLER,
WATTLED STARLINGS, GREY-BACKED SHRIKE, RED-NECKED SPURFOWL, WHITE-BACKED
VULTURE, AUGUR BUZZARD, MAGPIE SHRIKE, SCARLET-CHESTED SUNBIRD,
YELLOW-THROATED LONGCLAW. Lilac-breasted
Roller And then there are
the mammals, we see many of the antelope we saw at Nairobi National Park but
here in the Serengeti the number of animals is mind boggling. BJ gets word
from another vehicle, of which there are many, about something interesting
and he puts the pedal to the metal. “We are going to see something that is
very difficult to find most of the time,” he tells us. We pull up to a
cluster of Land Rovers and Cruisers and there in a tree 200 yards away is a
LEOPARD with a freshly killed Wildebeest calf. It pulls tufts of fur from its
prey that suddenly falls out of the tree.
We watch the big cat leap down from the tree, grab the calf by the
neck and drag it back up into the tree. Wow! Minutes later we
drive up to a small tree with a pair of lions under it who appear to be in a
post coitus state of exhaustion. BJ tells us about the frequency with which
lions mate as many as 230 times a day for a few consecutive days. No wonder
they look tired. I am surprised at just how close they allow our vehicle to
approach who needs a long lense? Our first two SECRETARYBIRDS go stomping by on their
long legs and dreadlock head feathers. GRANT’S GAZELLES
are new for us as are WARTHOGS. While we are viewing these
a skinny female lion passes in front of our vehicle and stalks the
pigs. She looks as if she has been through an ordeal with a fresh open wound
on her rear haunch. Close on her heels is a SPOTTED HYENA covered in a layer
of mud. It is a thrill to watch the lion try to creep up on the Warthogs but
they catch sight of her and are off and away much to the lion’s and hyena’s chagrin. We have lunch at
the lovely Seronera Lodge tucked into a granite outcropping called
a kopje (Afrikaans for head). On the way to the dining room we see our first
ROCK HYRAXES and DWARF MONGOOSE, a brilliant red and blue AGAMA LIZARD and a BLUE-CAPPED CORDONBLEU. After our sumptuous
lunch we repair to the lounge for a brief siesta before returning to our
stretch Land Cruiser. Just after leaving Seronera Lodge we pause at a small pool on the river and
find a nice variety of shorebirds and waterfowl; BLACK-WINGED STILT, PIED AVOCET, SPOTTED REDSHANK, MARSH, WOOD,
CURLEW, GREEN and COMMON SANDPIPERS, LITTLE STINT, RUFF, GREENSHANK, BLACK
CRAKE, RED-KNOBBED COOT, RED-BILLED DUCK, EGYPTIAN GOOSE, AFRICAN PYGMY
KINGFISHER, WHISKERED TERN and
in the shrubs a RATTLING CISTICOLA. Then we’re off to
the Retina Hippo Pool and see HELMETED
GUINEAFOWL, YELLOW and GREY BREASTED SPURFOWL, BROWN SNAKE EAGLE, BATELEUR,
AUGUR BUZZARD, AFRICAN GREY HORNBILL, WHITE-BELLIED GO AWAY BIRD, RUEPPEL’S
GRIFFON and WHITE-HEADED VULTURES, CROWNED and BLACKSMITH LAPWINGS. Our
first pair of diminutive DIK-DIKS antelopes are seen
near the roadside. African Gray
Hornbill At the hippo pool
we see a pod of HIPPOPATUMUS piled on top of each other in the green muddy
muck. Given that we are on an elevated bank which they would be unable to
scale we can get very close to these dangerous animals. Of all the African
mammals it is the Hippo that is the most frequent killer of humans and here
we are all of 15 feet from them! On the other side of the pool out of the
water is a very large NILE CROCODILE. There are birds
here too; YELLOW-BILLED STORK, WATER
THICK-KNEE and THREE BANDED PLOVER. From the pools we
head back to Seronera area were we will be camping
for the night. En route we come across a CAPE BUFFALO hosting a flock of RED-BILLED OXPECKERS getting a bit of
water out of his nostrils. A MAASAI GIRAFFE has YELLOW-BILLED OXPECKERS working their way up his neck. We see our
first AFRICAN FISH EAGLE. We arrive at camp
where our tents and dining table are all set up and waiting. It has been a
long and very fruitful day and the Tusker Beers are a welcome refreshment. We dine
out in the open on some tasty African Beef Stew. I finally start to feel like I’m on safari. Our tents are
canvas dome tents with cots inside that prove to be comfortable and sturdy in
the gale that ensues in the night. Lanterns are lit to discourage the wild
animals from visiting. A pit toilet behind the tents has a canvas enclosure
for privacy. There is also an enclosed
bladder shower. http://www.africadreamsafaris.com/lodges/seronera-campsite.html After dinner we
gather briefly around a small campfire in camp chairs but soon we all repair
to our tents. The wind howls in the night. My dad goes out to secure a flap
on his tent that is keeping him awake. There is a tap on his shoulder and the
camp cook informs him that there is a lion very nearby. There are no guns in
camp. As Ed Abbey once
wrote, “it ain’t really wilderness unless there’s
something out there that can eat you.” Feb. 6 The winds that
pummeled our tents all night have thankfully abated by dawn. When it finally gets light out I exit the
tent and start ticking new birds about our camp; TROPICAL BOUBOU, SPOTTED FLYCATCHER, BARE-FACED GO AWAY BIRD,
VITELLINE MASKED WEAVER, BROWN PARROT, GABAR GOSHAWK, SPECKLED PIGEON and
PALE FLYCATCHER all before breakfast! We depart camp and
soon come upon our first AFRICAN ELEPHANTS grazing as they go. The group is
comprised of females and calves. They are undisturbed by our presence and it
is a treat to be able to hear them rip us the grass and snatch it with their
trunk into their mouths. Any time we stop the car and the engine goes off we are struck by an awesome silence that is
almost eery. A BATELEUR flies overhead, as does a MONTAGU’S HARRIER, along the road we
pass a STUHLMANN’S STARLING, MOURNING
COLLARED DOVE, BLACK-HEADED HERON and WHITE-HEADED We come upon our
first THOMSON’S GAZELLES and find some more Elephants working the acacia
trees. Upon arriving at the Moru Kopjes we find a
couple of small lion prides sleeping in the shady recesses of the rocks. We
stop at the Maasai Gong Rock for lunch. The cave
with the pictographs reeks of lion urine. The gong rock in
like a primitive xylophone. Hit it with a cobble in different, well worn
holes and get a variety of notes that sound surprisingly metallic. The view
of the Serengeti from here makes it seem endless. Of course there are birds
here where the kopjes hide subsurface water creating lush green islands in
the dry savannah; AFRICAN On the way back to
camp we find a group of BANDED MONGOOSE residing in a termite mound and find
our first BLACK-BACKED JACKAL. A TEMNICK’S COURSER and KORI BUSTARD are new families for me. A pair of TAWNY EAGLES allow
close approach as they eat what looks like a placenta. Back at camp the
crew pulls Tusker Beers out of the African refrigerator (they’ve been buried
in the ground all day) and we settle into our camp chairs taking turns in the
warm bladder shower. Dinner is leek soup and pan fried chicken with snap
peas. BJ and the camp crew bring out an almond cake and sing a lovely African
birthday song for our friend Coni to celebrate her
sixtieth. Once again we
gather around the campfire and relish our day together. In the night I get
up to pee. Exiting the tent I do my business next to one of the two kopjes
our camp is nestled between. I am back in the tent for maybe three minutes
before hearing a lion roar very near by. The sound comes from the same
direction I had just been to. BJ has described the roar with a deep voice,
“Who are you, who are you, I am lion, lion, lion.” The sound is
thrilling, curiously I am not frightened by it but rather awed. Laura, Coni and Cecille are happy they
have Feb. 7 In the morning we
are standing around camp, drinking our tea or coffee and talking about the
roaring lions in the night. Suddenly a male lion running by about 75 yards
outside of camp. He looks intent and doesn’t even glance our way. We hear a
series of loud growls and roars. BJ surmises that there are two male lions
fighting over an in estrus female. The lions are close but uninterested in us, they have more pressing things on their minds. Around camp before
breakfast I find some new birds in the flat topped acacia that looms over our
camp: GREY-BACKED CAMAREPTERA, SPECKLE-FRONTED
and PARASITIC WEAVERS, GREY-HEADED SPARROW and a comical looking pair of D’ARNAUD’S BARBETS. D’Arnaud’s Barbets We get an early
start on the day and proceed to drive into the southern Serengeti. On the main road
from While the others in
our group are gazing at the herds out of the top of the Land Cruiser I’m
trying to get a decent look at some of these little brown jobs that have been
flitting by the vehicle as we drive along. I finally manage a decent look at
a RUFOUS SHORT-TOED LARK and FISCHER’S
SPARROW LARK. WATTLED STARLINGS seem to be everywhere the herds of
animals are. TAWNY EAGLES soar over the plains but
then a darker, larger bird stoops on one of them and I get the field marks
down before finding it in the book. STEPPE
EAGLE! In the short grass I manage
to pick out a well camouflaged YELLOW-THROATED SANDGROUSE for my
thirteenth new family in 4 days. On our way out of Back in the Land
Cruiser we proceed to the area of the southern Serengeti known as the Gol Kopjes. The grass is short here and there are
gazelles galore. In addition to the Thomson’s and Grant’s we find some
SOEMMERING’S GAZELLES. We have a quarry here, BJ has
declared that this area is our best bet for finding Cheetah. In the
conservation area we are allowed to roam off the designated tracks. This is
great fun driving cross country. We see a kopje and head for it, drive around
and see what might be hiding in the rocks. We find more napping lions but try
as we may we do not find any cheetahs. We do have a memorable
race with a male Ostrich. I’ll never forget seeing that giant bird pass the
car and pull away! New birds seen in the Gol Kopjes
and surrounding grasslands are; PIED
WHEATEAR, SPOTTED THICK-KNEE, GREATER KESTREL, PALLID HARRIER,
BLACK-SHOULDERED KITE, CAPE ROOK and CHESTNUT-BELLIED SANDGROUSE. Back on the main
road to Ngorongoro Crater we encounter the Maasai. With their vibrant red and cobalt shukas they leap out of the dry and dusty landscape like apparitions.
We see small children tending the flocks of sheep and goats with the older
ones tending the cattle. We come to our
accommodations for the next two nights at Olduvai
Tented Lodge and are welcomed by Maasai warriors
who help us with our bags. The tents are a step up from the last two nights.
Thatched roofs cover the tents and behind them, inside a thatched enclosure
are a bladder shower and pit toilet. See http://www.africadreamsafaris.com/lodges/olduvia.html We are invited to
join one of the warriors on a short walk while our showers are filled with warm
water. Frances is very friendly, outgoing and self assured like most of the Maasai we will encounter. He has a quick smile,
contagious laugh and firm handshake. He speaks English very well and a bit of
French in addition to Maasai and Swahili. It’s nice
to walk a bit after all the driving around. We climb up to the
top of the kopje the lodge is nestled into. Here we enjoy a spectacular vista
of the Serengeti and look right down into a boma
enclosure as I have brought my
bins but feel a little self conscious birding around White-browed
Scrub-Robin Back at the tent I
enjoy my warm shower even though there are twenty Rock Hyraxes watching me
from a boulder just uphill. At dinner we are joined in the dining room by a
pair of COMMON GENETS. Feb. 8 At 2am we are
awakened by what I assume is the alarm call of the Rock Hyrax. It’s cute at
first and but after 20 minutes I’m outside tossing rocks in the direction of
the sound. This works in getting them to shut up so we can get some sleep. At
first light it sounds like someone’s car alarm is going off. It must be a
bird but who knows? I sit outside our
tent watching the light come up on the mountains. Soon it is light enough to
see birds; WHITE-THROATED ROBIN, TAITA
FISCAL, TACAZZE and
COLLARED SUNBIRDS, SOUTHERN RUFOUS SPARROW, GREEN WINGED PYTIILIA, a
flyover of vultures includes a single EGYPTIAN
VULTURE. At breakfast the dining room is invaded by COMMON ROCK THRUSHES. We head for the Ndutu area and the now dry After much hunting
he has finally located a CHEETAH and furthermore it is right next to the
road! We spend the next half hour with the cat..
Given some blood on the feet we surmise it has just eaten. We have it all to
ourselves until a Land Rover pulls up all too quickly and frightens the
Cheetah away from the road. It doesn’t
venture far and settles under a tree for another grand photo opportunity. The vehicle that
has scared the Cheetah can’t be bothered and pulls away almost immediately.
It drives a short distance and then stops so the couple inside can shoot
photos of a Tawny Eagle, must be birders. A parked safari
vehicle reveals two male lions sleeping off the Cape Buffalo they’ve nearly
finished eating. A small wetland area has a lovely SADDLE-BILLED STORK and a GLOSSY IBIS. We find our group’s
first herd of ELAND and are surprised to find that unlike the other animals
these bolt and run. Being the size of cattle makes the Eland appeal to
poachers so they have learned to keep away from vehicles. We also turn up
another shy animal an AFRICAN HARE. Out of the forest
in the grasslands we find two WHITE
STORKS. Then back in the trees driving cross country we find our first AFRICAN HOOPOE. Overnight at Olduvai Tented Lodge. Feb. 9 Checking out of Olduvai I break out a pack of Bic
pens I’ve brought along. In reading
trip reports on the web prior to our trip I learned that pens can be nearly
as good as currency for east Africans. When the workers at the lodge assemble
to wish us goodbye I offer pens to a few who have been very helpful like the
guy who filled our shower and the one who retrieved some cold beers from the
bar and they are very appreciative. One of them tells me he is going to send
it off to his grandson at school. This morning we
will take a break from the game drives and take the opportunity to get to
know the locals. BJ has arranged for us to visit a nearby Maasai
Boma. This is something I doubt many of the birding
tour groups do but I must say it turns out to be one of the most memorable
experiences of our trip. The Maasai people we find very friendly, warm and outgoing.
The headman thanks me for the $20 I give as a gift. The men of the village
come dancing out of the thorny enclosure to welcome us and then the women do
the same. Once inside we are then asked to join them in dancing and several
of us do. Jerry and I do some
jumps with the encouragement of the Maasai men who
hand us a club and spear for authenticity. I’m told I’m a good jumper. Our
wives are given wide
Maasai beaded necklaces and join the women in
dance. Once the dancing is
done with the headman takes us into one of the simple huts that are
constructed by the women of sticks and cow dung. A stone bowl of porridge simmers over a small
fire. We all barely fit inside. He tells us about his people. I think we are
all struck by how articulate and intelligent he is. His English is very good. We stop in at the
tiny bamboo hut that serves as the schoolhouse. There are about 20 kids in
attendance. One of the little ones goes up to the blackboard and leads the
class in counting up to thirty in English and then they sing the national
anthem in Swahili. We sing them Mary had a Little Lamb and get a round of applause
in return. Our group has brought some school supplies and these are given to
the thankful teacher. (more pens!) Then it’s off to
the Maasai mall. Crafts have been spread out on the
thorny boma barrier for purchase. Lots of fine
beaded bracelets, necklaces and shields. We select some items and hand them
over to the headman to work out the details of price. Jerry trades his $30
watch for a beaded club. I get several offers for mine but I’m hanging on to
it. Many of the Maasai men introduce themselves personally and shake my
hand. They are very personable. I
really enjoy the interaction with these beautiful people..
We then visit the
small museum and attend the briefing at We climb up to the
crater rim and pause at the overlook before driving along the rim. We stop at
a picnic sight just past the cluster of lodges on the south side of the rim. I hear a familiar sound and am pleased to
see our first WHITE-NECKED RAVENS.
They sound just like the ones back home. While picnicking we watch Black
Kites manage to steal food right out of the hands of other unsuspecting
tourists. Afterwards we
continue on the road to Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge which sits all by itself on this side of the
crater. Most of our group head for the pool from which there is an awesome
view, but not me. This is a good opportunity to spot some montane
species. An hour or so around the
lodge forest turns up STREAKED
SEEDEATER, BAGALFECHT & DARK-BACKED WEAVER, AFRICAN PIED WAGTAIL, MONTANE
WHITE-EYE, BLUE SWALLOW, COMMON STONECHAT, RUEPPELL’S ROBIN-CHAT,
CINNAMON-CHESTED BEE-EATER, TAMBOURINE DOVE, MOUNTAIN YELLOW WARBLER,
ABYSSYNIAN BLACK WHEATEAR, EASTERN DOUBLE COLLARED SUNBIRD, SPECKLED
MOUSEBIRD and ORIOLE FINCH. The Sopa lodge feels fancy with its tiled shower and formal
dining room compared to our last two nights under canvas. Feb. 10 Our guide BJ has
managed to do a remarkable job of keeping us away from the throng of other
safari vehicles for the most part. In order to do this once again he has
proposed leaving at 6am. This way we will likely be the first party in the
crater and we agree wholeheartedly. Down the road from
the Sopa lodge before it is light out. The
headlights beam down on a single MONTANE
NIGHTJAR in the middle of the road. Just as it is getting light enough to
see we are on the crater floor. This is an incredible place to be and having
all to ourselves is even better. The day starts with sightings of CAPE
BUFFALO and an active pride of lions we watch cavort and play. ROSY-THROATED LONGCLAW, GRASSLAND PIPIT,
LONG-LEGGED BUZZARD and RED-CAPPED LARK appear on
the short grasslands YELLOW WAGTAILS of
several subspecies are everywhere. BJ is on a mission,
driving about until he finds the last of the “Big Five” for us. He ends up
finding a mother and calf BLACK RHINO. They are a ways off and unfortunately
they are lying down but see them we do. We also find some other new mammals
as well. A pack of BAT-EARED FOXES poking up out of their den are comical
with their huge ears. We also get close looks at a GOLDEN JACKAL. In one area near a
swamp we see our first strikingly beautiful CROWNED CRANES but what we find truly amazing is the incredible
diversity of wildlife in this part of the crater. There is a bit of
everything here; Gazelles, Elephants, Hippos grazing, Ostriches, Zebras,
Wildebeests, a veritable Garden of Eden. We stop for lunch
at a small lake replete with more Hippos, AFRICAN
JACANA, FAN-TAILED WIDOWBIRD, COMMON BUZZARD and AFRICAN REED WARBLER. During
our lunch we watch a pride of lions on an outcropping on the other side of
the lake stalk a herd of After lunch we
drive over to the saline lake in the crater and here we find a mixed flock of
both GREATER and LESSER FLAMINGOES. We pass the Black Rhinos again but now there
are 20 vehicles gathered there. Glad we got here when we did but now it is
time to leave the crater behind. We make our way up the rough road back to
the rim to the park entrance and an actual paved road that seems like a dream
after all the game drive tracks of the past week. Leaving the
conservation area we travel past cultivated hillsides of red dirt and several
small villages before turning off the main road and up the hill to
I head for the pool
to bird but end up napping instead. Afterwards I patrol the grounds
repeatedly to add BLACKCAP, NAMAQUA
DOVE, BLACK-FRONTED BUSHSHRIKE, SOUTHERN BLACK FLYCATCHER, BLACK-HEADED
APALIS, MALACHITE SUNBIRD and VILLAGE INDIGOBIRD to the trip list. We also enjoy
perhaps the most elegant meal of our trip here at Feb. 11 With some
reluctance we leave the lodge and head for The new nature
trail and facilities at the Lake Manyara National
Park would put to shame most of the parks in the U.S. As BJ is securing permits a PINK-BACKED PELICAN lands in a tree
overhead. With permits in hand we enter the spring fed forest and come upon a
troop of OLIVE BABOONS and nearby a group of SYKES BLUE MONKEYS. We watch a trio of MAASAI GIRAFFES do battle by swinging their
heads into one another’s necks. We can hear the thud of the impact. On the
other side of the vehicle I find a lovely EMERALD
SPOTTED WOOD DOVE. Along the stream flowing to the lake is a GRAY-HEADED KINGFISHER, an impressive GOLIATH HERON and two SPUR-WINGED LAPWINGS. As we approach
the edge of Lake Manyara we hit waterfowl pay dirt;
WHITE-FACED WHISTLING DUCK, HOTTENTOT
TEAL, SPUR-WINGED GOOSE, COMB DUCK along with BLACK and SQUACCO HERON and BLUE-CHEEKED BEEATER. Standing on the
ground close by is a huge MARTIAL
EAGLE. As we pull away from the
shore we find our first SOUTHERN
GROUND-HORNBILLS for my 24th new family of the trip.
Southern Ground
Hornbill Back in the forest
we turn up a VAN DER DECKEN’S HORNBILL, COMMON DRONGO and soaring overhead are WAHLBERG’S
and LONG-CRESTED EAGLES. At the picnic area
we find a stunning RED and YELLOW
BARBET and UPCHER’S WARBLER. We
leave The road is paved
most of the way but just outside the town of We stop for a bird-a RED-BILLED HORNBILL and a small mob
of kids is upon us. They ask for our empty water bottles and I have a stash
of them accumulated in the back and the kids grab these in a mad rush as I
pass them out the window. Inside the park we
find large herds of Elephants, more than we have seen anywhere else. At the
lodge we are welcomed by the local endemic ASHY STARLINGS and some RED-WINGED
STARLINGS too. It is a warm afternoon and after lunch the pool is very
inviting. Feb. 12 It’s hard to
believe that our safari is nearly over. The time has whipped by and only a
few game drives are left. This morning we make the most of our remaining
time. An ABYSINNIAN ROLLER just after leaving
the lodge grounds is followed by a EURASIAN
BEE-EATER, and an AFRICAN ORANGE-BELLIED PARROT. A stop along the
nearly dry Tarangire River is very productive in
turning up some new birds that are drawn to a pool; a pair of PIED KINGFISHERS, CHESTNUT SPARROW,
RED-BILLED QUELEA, a lovely male PARADISE
WHYDAH and CHESTNUT SPARROW. A MARSH MONGOOSE is a new mammal for us. Of course there are
other great birds like the African Fish Eagle and Goliath Heron but if I were
to write of every single sighting this trip report would be endless. Along the edge of We return to Tarangire Sopa Lodge for lunch
and a siesta before we head back out for an afternoon game drive. We spend
some quality time with a group of Elephants. With the engine off we listen to
them ripping at the vegetation and mumbling to one another. There are a few
babies in the group which rate high on the scale of cuteness. Just by luck I look
up and see a VERRAUX’S EAGLE OWL snoozing
in a tree. We also find a
Verreaux’s Eagle Owl We end the drive
watching a sizable troop of OLIVE BABOONS with some newborns among them. Feb. 13 With heavy hearts
we start the day with what will be our last game drive. Some of our group are ready to end the safari but I could go on for a
few more days. They aren’t birders either. Tarangire, with it’s many huge Baobab trees and
forested areas, has been a very different safari experience than the
Serengeti and the crater. With the exception of the elephants we have seen
fewer animals here and no predators at all. It has proved to be quite birdy. A COQUI FRANCOLIN crosses the track in
front of the Land Cruiser. We get our
best look yet at a SILVERBIRD. I
happily find my first COLLARED PRATINCOLE and
LESSER STRIPED SWALLOW. A MADAGASAR BEE-EATER is a surprise wintering
bird. We find our only Lions at Tarangire. The small pride is very wary of us and run
away to hide behind some shrubs. We make a rest stop
at the entry to check out and here is a SPOTTED
MORNING THRUSH and a DESERT CISTICOLA. The time has come
to head back to Arusha. I distribute the last of my
pens along the way to waving kids. We stop at one last shop to do just that
and after a few hours we arrive at our accommodations for the night.
The place is lush
and green in stark contrast to the barren plains and dry forests and of
course here is a whole new cast of birds to be seen. While sitting on the
back veranda I am surprised to see a BLACK & WHITE COLOBUS MONKEY
watching us from the trees and right then a huge hornbill flies by. A flock
of SILVERY-CHEEKED HORNBILLS turn
out to be common yard birds here.
Silvery-cheeked
Hornbills The lake near the
lodge has a COMMON MOORHEN, LITTLE GREBE,
LONG-TAILED CORMORANT, AFRICAN JACANA, FISH EAGLE and HADADA IBIS. In the
gardens at the lodge are AFRICAN OLIVE
PIGEON, KENRICK’S STARLING, CHESTNUT WEAVER and WHITE-EARED BARBET. Overhead are swarms
of both AFRICAN PALM and HORUS SWIFTS. One thing about our time in African that I
find remarkable is the nearly constant presence of swifts and swallows
veering about. Feb. 14 I can’t wait for
the sun the come up. The night and early morning has been filled with
sounds. The loud shrieks of the Hadada Ibises in the night, the intense downpour of rain,
the loud howls of the Black and White Colubus
monkeys and the call to prayer at 5:15 are all punctuated by the heartbeat
pounding of the Ram pump that diverts water from the spring fed lake to the
hillside. On the information
page for the lodge they boast of having a yard list of over 200 species. So I
am chomping at the bit to get birding. Once the sun is out enough to see I
head out and find the birding is surprisingly slow. I catch myself comparing
this place to the dense forests in southeastern The birdiest spot seems to be near the pool where blooming heliconias attract sunbirds: AMETHYST, OLIVE and VARIABLE. Sizable
flocks of AFRICAN YELLOW WHITE-EYE fly
in too. I end up spending
quite a bit of time trying to get decent shots of the Colobus
monkeys and the hornbills. In time these are joined by a troop of Blue Sykes
Monkeys. Shortly after lunch
BJ returns for us and we are off the SUMMARY EQUIPMENT: I
brought my scope along and a window mount that fit on the roof rack. I should
have left it at home. I only pulled it out about four times. My 10x30 Canon
IS binoculars were all that I needed 99 percent of the time. A digital voice
recorder was a must for keeping track of daily sightings. Up to 100 entries
can be made on several menus. I used and A pilot friend told
me about piddle packs or Port-a-Johns which some of our group loved having on
the camping nights to avoid having to go out of the tent. I ordered them
online. I used a Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ10 with a 12x optical zoom and image
stabilizer. It is only 4 megapixels but I am quite satisfied with the photos. They
can be viewed online at http://www.rwolfe.photosite.com PREPARATION: I did
quite a bit of studying for this trip. Given that I would not have the luxury
of a birding guide I wanted to be prepared. I managed to do this is several
ways. I read a number of trip reports that visited the same areas we would
and made a list of possible sightings that I then highlighted in my field
guide and studied daily- I used Birds of Two trip reports
that I found very useful are on Surfbirds. http://www.surfbirds.com/trip_report.php?id=784
by Jack Stephens and http://www.naturalist.co.uk/reports2003/tanzania.php by Peter Roberts Another website
with good photos I studied like flash cards is: http://www.birdingafrica.net/index.html
photos by Ron Eggert I also purchased
the video A Nature Safari to Our guide was blown
away that I had not been to OPERATOR: I booked our trip
with African Dream Safaris who use COST: We paid $2936 per
person. We kept the cost down with two nights of what they call “medium” as
opposed to “luxury” camping. We saved more by having a group of 6 and thus
our own private group. We were very satisfied with all of our accommodations. CURRENCY: We
carried US dollars in a variety of denominations. A bunch of $1 bills are
handy for tipping and as noted above pens are nice to give away or bargain
with, and much needed. THOUGHTS: This was
not a clean up type birding trip. I made the error in taking my non birding
spouse on one of these to HITS AND MISSES: I had high hopes
based upon reading trip reports for seeing 33 new families of birds. I don’t
have the resources to see every bird on earth but I just might be able to
find every family. Of the 33 I missed seeing Painted Snipe, Cuckoo Shrikes, Honeyguide, and Wood-hoopoes/Scimitarbills
for 29 new families. Surprisingly I did not see a single Cuckoo.
Red and Yellow
Barbet 2/14/2006 Species
Observed:
Struthionidae Common Ostrich Struthio camelus Phasianidae Coqui Francolin Peliperdix coqui Crested Francolin Peliperdix sephaena Yellow-necked Spurfowl Pternistis leucoscepus Grey-breasted Spurfowl Pternistis rufopictus Red-necked Spurfowl Pternistis afer Numididae Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris Dendrocygnidae White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna viduata Anatidae Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiacus Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata Red-billed Duck Anas erythrorhyncha Hottentot Teal Anas hottentota Picidae Green-backed Woodpecker Campethera cailliautii Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens Lybiidae White-eared Barbet Stactolaema leucotis Red-and-yellow Barbet Trachyphonus erythrocephalus D'Arnaud's Barbet Trachyphonus darnaudii Bucerotidae Red-billed Hornbill Tockus erythrorhynchus Von der
Decken's Hornbill Tockus deckeni Crowned Hornbill Tockus alboterminatus African Grey Hornbill Tockus nasutus Silvery-cheeked Hornbill Ceratogymna brevis Bucorvidae Southern Ground-Hornbill Bucorvus leadbeateri Upupidae African Hoopoe Upupa africana Coraciidae Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudata Alcedinidae Malachite Kingfisher Alcedo cristata African Pygmy-Kingfisher Ispidina picta Halcyonidae Grey-headed Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala Woodland Kingfisher Halcyon senegalensis Cerylidae Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis Meropidae Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus Cinnamon-chested
Bee-eater Merops oreobates Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Merops persicus European Bee-eater Merops apiaster Coliidae Speckled Mousebird Colius striatus Blue-naped
Mousebird Urocolius macrourus Centropodidae White-browed Coucal Centropus superciliosus Psittacidae Meyer's Parrot Poicephalus meyeri Red-bellied Parrot Poicephalus rufiventris Fischer's Lovebird Agapornis fischeri Yellow-collared Lovebird Agapornis personatus Apodidae African Palm-Swift Cypsiurus parvus Mottled Swift Tachymarptis aequatorialis African Swift Apus barbatus Little Swift Apus affinis Horus Swift Apus horus White-rumped
Swift Apus caffer Musophagidae Bare-faced Go-away-bird Corythaixoides personatus White-bellied Go-away-bird Corythaixoides leucogaster Strigidae Verreaux's Eagle-Owl Bubo lacteus Long-eared Owl Asio otus Caprimulgidae Montane Nightjar Caprimulgus poliocephalus Columbidae Rock Dove Columba livia Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea African Olive-Pigeon Columba arquatrix Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis Mourning Collared-Dove Streptopelia decipiens Ring-necked Dove Streptopelia capicola Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove Turtur chalcospilos Tambourine Dove Turtur tympanistria Namaqua Dove Oena capensis Otididae Kori Bustard Ardeotis kori White-bellied Bustard Eupodotis senegalensis Black-bellied Bustard Eupodotis melanogaster Gruidae Grey Crowned-Crane Balearica regulorum Rallidae Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostra Red-knobbed Coot Fulica cristata Pteroclidae Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles exustus Yellow-throated Sandgrouse Pterocles gutturalis Scolopacidae Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola Common Sandpiper Tringa hypoleucos Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea Little Stint Calidris minuta Ruff Philomachus pugnax Jacanidae African Jacana Actophilornis africanus Burhinidae Water Thick-knee Burhinus vermiculatus Spotted Thick-knee Burhinus capensis Charadriidae Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris Blacksmith Lapwing Vanellus armatus Spur-winged Lapwing Vanellus spinosus Crowned Lapwing Vanellus coronatus Glareolidae Temminck's Courser Cursorius temminckii Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola Laridae Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus Accipitridae Black Kite Milvus migrans Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus Rueppell's Griffon Gyps rueppellii Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotus White-headed Vulture Trigonoceps occipitalis Black-chested
Snake-Eagle Circaetus pectoralis Brown Snake-Eagle Circaetus cinereus Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus Pale Chanting-Goshawk Melierax canorus Gabar Goshawk Melierax gabar Common Buzzard Buteo buteo Augur Buzzard Buteo augur Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis Wahlberg's Eagle African Hawk-Eagle Hieraaetus spilogaster Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus Long-crested Eagle Lophaetus occipitalis Sagittariidae Secretarybird Sagittarius serpentarius Falconidae Pygmy Falcon Polihierax semitorquatus Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Greater Kestrel Falco rupicoloides Grey Kestrel Falco ardosiaceus Podicipedidae Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Phalacrocoracidae Long-tailed Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo Ardeidae Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Black Heron Egretta ardesiaca Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala Goliath Heron Ardea goliath Great Egret Ardea alba Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides Striated Heron Butorides striatus Scopidae Hamerkop Scopus umbretta Phoenicopteridae Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber Lesser Flamingo Phoenicopterus minor Threskiornithidae Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash Olive Ibis Bostrychia olivacea Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus Pelecanidae Pink-backed Pelican Pelecanus rufescens Ciconiidae Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis Abdim's Stork Ciconia abdimii White Stork Ciconia ciconia Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumeniferus Corvidae Pied Crow Corvus albus White-necked Raven Corvus albicollis Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis African Paradise-Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis Brubru Nilaus afer Tropical Boubou Laniarius aethiopicus Slate-colored Boubou Laniarius funebris Black-fronted Bushshrike Telophorus nigrifrons Chinspot Batis Batis molitor Laniidae Rufous-tailed Shrike Lanius isabellinus Long-tailed Fiscal Lanius cabanisi Taita Fiscal Lanius dorsalis Common Fiscal Lanius collaris Magpie Shrike Corvinella melanoleuca Sylviidae African Reed-Warbler Acrocephalus baeticatus Upcher's Warbler Hippolais languida Icterine Warbler Hippolais icterina Mountain Flycatcher-Warbler Chloropeta similis Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus Black-lored
Babbler Turdoides melanops Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla Muscicapidae Rufous-tailed Rock-Thrush Monticola saxatilis Little Rock-Thrush Monticola rufocinereus White-throated Thrush Turdus assimilis Silverbird Empidornis semipartitus Pale Flycatcher Bradornis pallidus Southern Black-Flycatcher Melaenornis pammelaina Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata White-throated Robin Irania gutturalis Rueppell's Robin-Chat Cossypha semirufa White-browed Robin-Chat Cossypha heuglini Spotted Morning-Thrush Cichladusa guttata African Stonechat Saxicola axillaris Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe Schalow's Wheatear Oenanthe lugubris Pied Wheatear Oenanthe pleschanka Capped Wheatear Oenanthe pileata Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina Sooty Chat Myrmecocichla nigra Mocking Cliff-Chat Thamnolaea cinnamomeiventris Sturnidae Stuhlmann's Starling Poeoptera stuhlmanni Kenrick's Starling Poeoptera kenricki Greater Blue-eared
Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis chalybaeus Rueppell's Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis purpuropterus Superb Starling Lamprotornis superbus Hildebrandt's Starling Lamprotornis hildebrandti Ashy Starling Cosmopsarus unicolor Wattled Starling Creatophora cinerea Yellow-billed Oxpecker Buphagus africanus Red-billed Oxpecker Buphagus erythrorhynchus Hirundinidae Sand Martin Riparia riparia Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Blue Swallow Hirundo atrocaerulea Lesser Striped-Swallow Hirundo abyssinica Mosque Swallow Hirundo senegalensis Northern House-Martin Delichon urbica Pycnonotidae Garden Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus Cisticolidae Rattling Cisticola Cisticola chiniana Winding Cisticola Cisticola galactotes Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis Desert Cisticola Cisticola aridulus Black-headed Apalis Apalis melanocephala Green-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brachyura Zosteropidae African Yellow White-eye Zosterops senegalensis Broad-ringed White-eye Zosterops poliogaster Alaudidae Red-capped Lark Calandrella cinerea Rufous Short-toed Lark Calandrella somalica Nectariniidae Collared Sunbird Anthreptes collaris Olive Sunbird Nectarinia olivacea Amethyst Sunbird Nectarinia amethystina Scarlet-chested
Sunbird Nectarinia senegalensis Variable Sunbird Nectarinia venusta Eastern Double-collared Sunbird Nectarinia mediocris Tacazze Sunbird Nectarinia tacazze Malachite Sunbird Nectarinia famosa Marico Sunbird Nectarinia mariquensis Beautiful Sunbird Nectarinia pulchella Passeridae House Sparrow Passer domesticus Southern Rufous-Sparrow Passer motitensis Grey-headed Sparrow Passer griseus Chestnut Sparrow Passer eminibey African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava Yellow-throated Longclaw Macronyx croceus Rosy-throated Longclaw Macronyx ameliae Plain-backed Pipit Anthus leucophrys Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver Bubalornis White-headed Buffalo-Weaver Dinemellia dinemelli White-browed Sparrow-Weaver Plocepasser mahali Grey-headed Social-Weaver Pseudonigrita arnaudi Baglafecht Weaver Ploceus baglafecht Black-necked Weaver Ploceus nigricollis African Golden-Weaver Ploceus subaureus Vitelline Masked-Weaver Ploceus vitellinus Speke's Weaver Ploceus spekei Chestnut Weaver Ploceus rubiginosus Red-billed Quelea Quelea quelea Fan-tailed Widowbird Euplectes axillaris Parasitic Weaver Anomalospiza imberbis Grosbeak Weaver Amblyospiza albifrons Green-winged Pytilia Pytilia melba Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala Red-cheeked Cordonbleu Uraeginthus bengalus Blue-capped Cordonbleu Uraeginthus cyanocephalus Purple Grenadier Uraeginthus ianthinogaster Black-cheeked Waxbill Estrilda erythronotos Village Indigobird Vidua chalybeata Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura Eastern Paradise-Whydah Vidua paradisaea Fringillidae Yellow-fronted Canary Serinus mozambicus Oriole Finch Linurgus olivaceus Mammals: Warthog Hippopotamus Maasai Giraffe Kirk’s Dik-dik Oribi Thompson’s Gazelle Grant’s Gazelle Soemmerring’s Gazelle Bohor Reedbuck Common Waterbuck Defassa Waterbuck Coke’s Hartebeest Topi White-bearded
Wildebeest Impala Common Eland Cape Buffalo Black Rhinoceros Common Zebra African Elephant Rock Hyrax Common Genet Dwarf Mongoose Banded Mongoose Marsh Mongoose Banded Mongoose Spotted Hyena Bat-eared Fox Golden Jackal Black-backed Jackal Syke’s Blue Monkey Black-faced Vervet Olive Baboon Eastern Black and
White Colobus Monkey African Lion Cheetah Leopard African Hare Unstriped Ground Squirrel Reptiles Agama Lizard Rock Python Nile Crocodile Leopard Tortoise |