September 5-20, 2000
by Roger Wolfe
Soquel, CA
My wife Laura and I endowed with frequent flier miles decided to make the
most of them and journey to Brazil in search of birds and hopefully some
large fauna. What really piqued our interest was the presence of a very
accessible nest of Harpy Eagles at Serra das Araras in SE Brazil. We found
a local guide, Braulio Carlos, via the Pantanal Bird Club's website. In
addition
to Serra das Araras we also booked a tour to of the Pantanal and Chapada
dos Guimares. We would then fly back to Sao Paulo for a visit to Itatiaia
National Park in the mountains and Ubatuba on the coast in search of
Atlantic Rainforest endemics.
Our miles got us all the way to Cuiaba, the capital of Mato Gosso state
via
AA and TAM Airlines by way of Sao Paulo and Brasilia. Upon arrival we were
met by a driver from the Hotel Diplomata located close to the airport which
is
simple but nice. Rooms for the night are about $52. Just down the street
is
Churrascaria Gaucho, a carnivore's dream come true. For $8 you can have
all
the grilled beef, pork and chicken you can eat and it is good! Be sure
and try
the grilled chicken hearts known locally as corazon. There is also a beer
and
pizza place next door and across the street.
Sept. 5 2000
Braulio met us in the lobby at six a.m. and drove us in his car the 150km
from Cuiaba to where the we hoped to see the Harpy. En route we spotted
a
pair of Blue and Gold Macaws nesting in a cavity on a palm snag right next
to
the road. In the near distance we saw our first of many Toco Toucans. When
we turned off the main road heading to our pousada (inn) we stopped to
check
the roadsides for birds-Magpie Tanager, Black-tailed Trogon, Chestnut-browed
Peppershrike and Greenish Elaenia for starters. We passed many trucks and
a limestone mining operation before arriving at our destination. Pousada
Currupira d'Araras is in a lovely setting, has a large stone pool fed by
a
stream, a pond and small but comfortable rooms. It is very much a spa type
of retreat. The food here is almost as good as the birding which is saying
a
lot. As we pulled up to the pousada we were greeted by numerous Southern
Lapwings and Guira Cuckoos browsing through the pasture, White-throated
Kingbird, Purplish Jay, Red-shouldered Macaw, Green-barred Woodpecker
and the ubiquitous Rufous Hornero and Thrush like Wren..
We dropped off our bags and headed straight for the Harpy nest. We parked
nearby and walked up to the nest located in one of the tallest trees. Nothing
there but three other birders and their guide- Andrew Whittaker. We
proceeded to beat about the high grasses surrounding the area. Braulio
played a tape recording of the mother Harpy but got no response. It was
getting quite warm now around 97 degrees F and about the same percentage
of humidity. Bear in mind that due to insects we are wearing long sleeve
shirts and pants so it is bloody hot! We head back to the pousada for lunch
and siesta to escape the heat of the day. This would be the basic pattern
we
would follow for most of the trip.
At 3:30 we were back in the field birding our way to the Harpy nest. Sightings
were of Plumbeous and Scaled Pigeons, Dusky-headed Parakeet, Epaulet
Oriole, Masked Tityra and our first hummingbird-a Long-billed Starthroat.
At
the nest all was quiet, no sign of the Harpy. Braulio is unconcerned, he
feels
that the juvenile can't have wandered very far. It was last seen three
days prior
to our arrival at the nest with its mother so we remain hopeful. In the
ebbing
light we lured a Little Tinamou into sight with a shotgun mike and playback.
Braulio pointed it out in the dense foliage using a laser pointer. He didn't
put it
on the bird but just to side. "Look to the left of the laser." There it
was. Quite
clever. Using tapes he also succeeded in calling in as darkness fell an
Ocellated Poorwill and both Spectactled and Black-banded Owls which we
enjoyed viewing through his scope with the help of a spotlight. On the
way
back to the pousada the road was awash in Pauraques.
Sept. 6
We are out in the field early fueled solely by tasty Brazilian coffee.
We will
have breakfast later. We follow a simple road cleared through the jungle
as
we listen to the dawn chorus. Using playback, we manage good looks at
Buff-throated Woodcreeper, White-dotted Fireeye, White-eyed Attila and
a
White-tailed Trogon. A rustling of leaves high in the trees reveals our
first
primate- a Bare-eared Marmoset. Further down the trail we come upon
Warbling Antbirds then Little and Red-stained Woodpeckers offer us a good
comparison of their similarities. The miniscule Short-tailed Pygmy Tyrant
is
nearly as small as a bumblebee. Braulio records the call of what he believes
is a Yellow-margined Flycatcher. According to the maps in Ridgley this
bird
is well out of range but later we find the recording matches the call on
the CD
Rom of Birds of Bolivia that Braulio has loaded on his laptop. If you haven't
noticed by now Braulio is into gadgets and they make him a very effective
birding guide.
Once again we follow the trail from the road to the Harpy nest. Hopeful
we are
but all is quiet. No sign of the big raptor but there are plenty of others
around
this morning. I point out a bird soaring above the canopy that turns out
to be
the second recorded Black-Hawk Eagle in this area. But there's more-
Gray-headed Hawk, Plumbeous Kite, White and Bicolored Hawks and King
Vultures help make up for the lack of a Harpy-almost.
In the afternoon we approach the nest from a different angle still hopeful
that
the Harpy juvenile hasn't left for good. On our approach we see White-eared
Puffbirds, Dusky-headed Parakeets and Blue-headed Parrot.
Cinnamon-Throated Hermits attack the tape player when Braulio plays a
recording of these birds on the lek. Back at the Harpy nest tree we watch
a
Chestnut-eared Aracari plundering the pendulous nests of the Yelllow-rumped
Caciques eliciting no reaction at all from the parents. We spend yet more
time searching the area for the Harpy but no luck.
Sept.7
First thing this morning we arrive at the Harpy nest. Now we've tried different
approaches and different times of the day and still no sign of the juvenile
or
the adults. Braulio has told us that this was one of the first Harpy nests
discovered in recent times in Brazil and it made the TV news. This broadcast
resulted in reports of three subsequent nests in the country as the locals
realized what they had and how rare it is. The Harpy at Serra das Araras
is
unusual in that the forest cover isn't very dense.This area is but a small
rivulet
of Amazonia that reaches into SE Brazil and is bordered by deciduous forest.
There is also a good deal of human activity here. The nest itself is in
a tall
tree just above a fence line located on a working ranch. The limestone
mine
isn't far as the eagle flies. Once a day there is a dynamite blast and
twice a
day we hear the air raid signal for starting and quitting time. For the
last year
and a half many birders have come here for their life Harpy as we have.
We
are disappointed but what can you do. Unless you go to a zoo there are
no
guarantees.
We head into the forest which is quite still this morning and very humid
as
well. Curiously the birding is slow unlike the past two days. We do see
a
Collared Trogon arguably the most lovely of the trogons. Also Striolated
Puffbird, Cream-colored Woodpecker, Bare-necked Fruitcrow and Cocoa
Thrush but not much more. In the late afternoon we try a new locale, a
narrow
limestone canyon but the birding remains quiet. Perhaps it is the humidity
which increases higher as it start to thunder and rain.
We are ready to call it a day but Braulio trudges on trying another trail.
Nothing. Finally we head back stopping at the nest one last time as darkness
falls and our hopes for for the Harpy are now as dim as the light. We've
given
it our best shot. On the road back to the pousada we spotlight a
Scissor-tailed and Little Nightjar amongst the throng of Paraque. It has
been
a long day and now we must drive the 150km back to Cuiaba. We soon learn
that the roads of Brazil by night are the realm of the truckers who prefer
to
travel after dark. Harrowingly we pass many of these diesel spewing
behemoths that are the main method of transportation of goods here.
Back in downtown Cuiaba at 8:30 p.m. we check into the Hotel Veneza which
is so, so. We have pizza and beer across street and collapse into bed soon
after.
Sept.8
This morning at breakfast provided by the hotel we meet Steve and Willy
Campos who will accompany us on the next segment of our trip. A short time
later Braulio arrives in a nine passenger VW bus(sans A/C) with a driver
-Eugeno. Down the road we go in the direction of the Pantanal. The size
of
Georgia, this is the largest wetland in the world. We turn off the highway
from
Cuiaba onto a smaller road that leads to Pocone. We stop along the way
to
bird the roadsides. Our first Southern Screamers, Limpkins, Green Ibis
and a
Pearl Kite. Then I see a bird I had marveled at when studying the field
guides
prior to our arrival in Brazil-a Streamer-tailed Tyrant is every bit as
striking as I
had hoped. A White-tailed Goldenthroat hummingbird, White-headed
Marsh-Tyrant, Red-crested Finch and Buff-necked Ibis are added to the
morning's tally.
We stop at a fish restaurant in Pocone and afterwards gas up the van and
a
reserve supply tank and soon arrive at the toll gate for the Transpantaneira.
This road was originally built to become a highway but later abandoned
when
maintenance of such a road would prove daunting. The dirt road is just
wide
enough for two vehicles to pass. Notable are the single track wooden bridges
that are passable for the most part but are in varying degrees of disrepair.
The
elevated roadbed was built by scooping soil from the sides resulting in
pockets that remain filled with water even at this time of year which is
the dry
season here. In these roadside pools are birds and other fauna, right from
the
start we are seeing great birds-Jabiru, Wood and Maguari Storks and a
distant Greater Rhea are the big ones. Plumbeous, Bare-faced and
Buff-necked Ibis are also present. Herons include Whistling, Capped,
White-necked and Little Blue. Then there are the landbirds Rufous-rumped
Seedeater, Crested Oropendola, Troupial, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Rufous
Cacholote and Greater Thornbird. On this day we also see all five species
of
Kingfisher. Capybara and caimans are plentiful.
Arriving at the only roadside stand on this stretch of road we pause for
cool
refreshments which are a welcome relief on this very hot and humid day.
Then
we walk the planks leading to an elevated tower where we watch the sun
set
into the vast, flat alluvial plain which comprises the Pantanal. From the
tower
we hear and see our first pair of Hyacinth Macaws! After dark we tiredly
make
our way down the road, the day has been a long one and quite hot but this
doesn't deter Braulio from breaking out his spotlight. We see a Common
Potoo hunting from the top of a termite mound We also spot a Brocket Deer.
We pass through a blue haze of smoke and see someone setting fires. At
last the lights of the Fazenda Santa Theresa are a welcome sight. A quick
shower in the deliciously air conditioned room helps restore our spirits
as
does dinner and a cold one. Afterwards we review our checklist for the
day
and I discover that on this day I've seen more new life birds than on any
other
occasion-47! This isn't my first trip to South America and I am finding
Brazil
extremely birdy.
Sept.9
We are out in the field by 6 a.m. to get some birding in before it gets
too hot.
From the fazenda we walk to the forest at the edge of the Pixaim River
which
runs beside our accomodations. The tape playback proves critical this
morning in enticing out of the cover Helmeted Manakin, Mato Grosso and
Band-tailed Antbirds, Chotoy, White-lored and Rusty-backed Spinetails.
Stripe-necked, Pearly-vented and Spotted Tody-Flycatchers and Flavescent
and White-bellied Warblers. Back at the fazenda we head for the small pool
for relief from the midday heat. There's a fence around it, we are told,
to keep
out the caiman and capybara.
Later after lunch and siesta we board a small boat to bird the river. On
the
bank we spot a Pale legged Hornero and a displaying Sunbittern. A La Plata
River Otter leaps into the water and we watch his bubble trail as he inspects
the hull of our boat. Our boatman points out a large bird hiding under
the
cover along the riverbank. We manage good looks at an Agami Heron, in my
opinion the most beautiful of all herons. We cross the river and come upon
a
family group of four Giant River Otters! Our boatman seems to be aquainted
with them. He calls them in with series of gentle grunts and when they
respond he rewards them with some small fish. They come right up to the
boat and at one point I'm concerned that one of these quite large, squealing
and grunting animals is going to leap into my lap. Being in the midst of
these
maginficent and playful animals is the highlight of our trip thus far.
As darkness falls Band-tailed Nighthawks skim the surface of the water
seeking out insects. We see many sets of caiman eyes glowing in the beam
of a flashlight all around us in the river. Later after dinner Braulio
and I head
into the night armed with headlamp and spotlight. This I think is one of
his
favorite things to do, shine the headlamp for eyeshine and sneak up and
grab
nightjars. The first one we catch is a good sized Nacunda Nighthawk who
we
discover is actually sitting on eggs. No nest of any kind. With the headlamp
on we can see many sets of tiny eyes glowing, close inspection reveals
them
to be spiders. In addition to the Nacunda we easily grab Spot-tailed and
Rufous Nightjars.
Sept. 10
Early this morning we depart the fazenda in the van but we don't get far
as we
spot a Red-billed Scythebill probing the holes in a fencepost with its
long
curved bill. A herd of Greater Rheas grazes nearby undisturbed by our
presence. Flycatchers are busy this morning. Braulio uses a tape so we
can
hear the call and see the display of the Campos Flycatcher, later we will
compare this with the new species of Suriri Flycatcher in the Chapada.
A
Xenopsaris, Rufous-fronted Thornbird, Yellow-chinned and
Cinererous-breasted Spinetails and Blue-crowned and Black-hooded
Parakeets and Scaly-headed Parrot round out the morning. We spend some
time observing the antics of two pairs of noisy Hyacinth Macaws feeding
in
some palms. Back at the pousada we feed the pet Toco toucans out of our
hand and are amazed at how gentle they are. At the feeder are Bay-winged
and Giant Cowbirds, Saffron Finches and Yellow-billed Cardinals.
In the late afternoon we load up the bus and drive 50km further down the
Transpantaneira birding enroute and picking up Striped Cuckoo and Lesser
Seed-Finch. Just after sunset we arrive at Pousada O Pantainero. Rustic
accomodations run by a family of Pantaneiros-the cowboys of Brazil.
Electricity here is via generator(no A/C) which runs until about 10pm.
The
ranch dogs have been sleeping in our room which we share with a good sized
Hyla Frog. A word of advice to the wise-Don't bring your non-birder spouse
here on her vacation.
After dinner we head out into the night in the bus. Our hopes for this
evening
are in seeing a Jaguar. Not an easy mammal to see. We spend a couple of
hours driving a side road off the Transpantaneira in the Jaguar Ecological
Reserve looking for the eyeshine of a large mammal. We do see something
sizable cross the road at one point but fail to relocate it. We play a
tape of
the eery sounds of a Jaguar but no luck. We do manage to get great looks
through the scope at a Great Potoo perched in its cryptic pose high in
a
snag.
Back at the pousada we settle into our beds as the meager fan swings back
and forth. Then the generator winds down. The night is very warm.
Sept.11
Up early to bird the same road we traveled the previous night. We observe
a
pair of Laughing Falcons being harassed by a pair of Bat Falcons. We spend
some time watching a large group of Black-and-Gold Howler Monkeys feeding
in the canopy. They watch us in return. Braulio plays a tape and gets an
immediate response from a Great Rufous Woodcreeper and we are surprised
at how large it is. We return to the fazenda for breakfast and afterwards
we
bird the forested area across the way. Blue-crowned Trogon, Silver-beaked
Tanager, Forest Elaenia and Flavescent Warbler are about all we come
across.
In the afternoon we drive further down the Transpantaneira. Shortly after
getting under way we meet another car and are informed that there is a
bus
stuck on one of the bridges ahead of us. When we arrive at this bridge,
which
is longer than any of the others, it looks to me as if it has collapsed.
The bus
is parked to the side of the road on the side we are coming from. So it
looks
as if it has all been cleared up.The bridge is broken but still usable
we find as
our driver heads across it undeterred. We come upon a large snake stretched
across the road. It turns out to be a young Yellow Anaconda about 2 meters
long. It moves away very quickly when we approach it on foot.
Birds are sparse. Conditions are quite dry here in the Pantanal during
our visit
and as a result we have seen almost no waterfowl. The Muscovy Ducks we
come across here and a pair of Brazilian Ducks seen earlier will be the
only
ducks we see. Shorebirds are also largely absent, only Solitary Sandpiper
and both Yellowlegs. We do see our first White-browed Blackbird before
we
turn around. We get back to the collapsed bridge and the bus is now stuck
in
the middle! I have visions of all six of us spending the night in the VW
van.
The men aboard the bus are frantically trying to free it with jacks and
assorted planks. From a nearby shack comes a man whistling aboard a
tractor who I suppose makes a profit rescuing vehicles off this bridge.
Forty-five minutes later they manage to get the bus across the bridge and
we
are back on the road with a cheer.
In the night when the generator has wound down we sleep very little. The
heat
is one thing, the baying of the hound dogs outside our door is another,
then
the ranch cat proceeds to yowl. Not to be upstaged the Hyla frog in our
bathroom is really loud, more of a scream than a croak. But the loudest
of all
are the Plumbeous Ibis who are nesting in the trees above us. They make
a
sound like the squealing skid of car tires. . We have to laugh.
Sept.12
Today is to be a transport day. We depart the Pantanal of Pocone and make
the drive back to Cuiaba. In some of the roadside ponds we spot as many
as
eight different species feeding together. Jabirus, Great and Snowy Egrets,
Wood Stork, White-necked, Whistling and Striated Herons, Roseate
Spoonbill. A raptor flying parallel to the road lands in a snag and turns
out to
be our only Crane Hawk of the trip. A red flowering shrub brings us
Buff-bellied Hermit. We arrive in Cuiaba and have lunch in an all you can
eat
place that charges by the pound. You are given a card and your food is
weighed and recorded and you pay when you leave. We tank up on water,
gas up the van and head towards Chapada dos Guimaraes National Park, a
couple hours drive from Cuiaba.
On the approach we see the mesa upon which the cerrado bioregion is
located. Fortunately with the increase in altitude comes the decrease in
temperature and humidity. We arrive at our accomodations for the next two
nights. The Hotel Laura Vicuna is nice. We immediately head for the pool
which feels great after the drive up. At 3:30 pm we head back into the
field.
The avifauna is largely different here than our previous locales. We hear
a
Red-legged Seriema but fail to locate it. We do see White-banded Tanager,
Horned Sungem, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Red-and-Green Macaws, and
I'm excited to see Collared Crescentchest which brings my trip total up
to four
new families. We dine at a restaurant in town which is quite good. There
are
three main food groups in Brazil and they are meat, meat and meat. There
is
always plenty of food, one dish typically feeds two and the assorted side
dishes of rice, beans, manioc and potatoes cover the entire table. We never
had a bad meal.
Sept. 13
The morning is clear and sunny as we bird the Chapada along the road to
Aguas Frias. The soil is here is very fine and rusty red and our clothing
soon
takes on this hue. Here we see the new species of Suriri Flycatrcher. The
call
is quite different from that of the Campos Flycatcher we saw earlier in
the
Pantanal as is its display which consisits of raising the wings as opposed
to
fluttering them. We also see Gray Monjita, Crested Black Tyrant,
Black-faced, White-banded and White-rumped Tanagers, Curl Crested Jay,
Coal-crested Finch and Green-winged Saltator. The big event are two
Red-legged Seriema which respond to the tape playback by galloping
assertively right up to us and demand to know who has invaded their territory.
These birds are the only members of their family and a bit bizarre. The
male
hops up on to a shrub about 20 feet away and vocalizes quite loudly. Braulio
is impressed, he has never seen a Seriema in full display this close before.
I
am excited about logging a fifth family.
For lunch we park the bus and hike a short distance to a restaurant located
inside the park in an incredible setting. Outside tables look out to a
lovely
waterfall and pool in which you can swim. From our tables with beer in
hand
we bird. A Great Dusky Swift on the nest beside the falls. Pale-breasted
Thrush, Thick-billed Euphonia. Braulio takes us down to the river behind
the
restaurant where he has spotted a Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper.
Later, after siesta, we go to the incredible Veu de Nova waterfall that
plummets from the mesa into a deep valley. The sheer rock faces here are
filled with roosting and nesting birds. White-eyed Parakeets are everywhere.
A Yellow-ridged Toucan tries to raid their nests to noisy protests. We
see our
first Swallow Flycatcher and Blue-winged Macaw. As the sun sets the swifts
come in like screaming jet fighters to roost behind the falls-White-collared,
Biscutate and Gray-rumped. This is one of the most scenic settings I've
ever
had the opportunity to bird. Unforgettable vista.
Sept. 14
In the night we are awakened by thunder and the sound of a downpour. At
first light the rain has abated but a damp mist enshrouds all around us.
We
drive a short distance from our hotel to a jungled ravine. Rain dripping
from the
canopy makes for difficult birding. The lighting is unfavorable. Despite
this we
do manage to see a few birds. Pectoral Sparrow comes in response to
playback. We also see a Sirystes and Euler's Flycatcher. Then it begins
to
rain and we opt to head back to the hotel for breakfast and hope for a
break in
the weather. Breakfasts seem to be the same wherever we go. Mango,
bananas. A soft white cheese, slices of ham and a breadroll to make a
sandwich. A variety of juices-watermelon, orange and cashew fruit to name
a
few. And of course there is always good coffee and tea.
The rain breaks up so we head back to the ravine for a couple of hours.
We
see Amethyst Woodstar, Blue Dacnis, Red-legged Honeycreeper. We hear a
Fiery-capped manakin, play a tape but only get to see the female who is
drab. We do get good looks at a couple of brilliant male Band-tailed Manakins
doing a little dance on the lek. Braulio works with the tape player for
a half
hour trying to get a Tataupa Tinamou into view but the bird stubbornly
refuses.
We have another huge lunch in town and afterword Braulio takes us to a
spot
which is the geodetic center of South America. From here we can see Cuiaba
in the distance below us. In this grassy area we look for Blue Finch but
find
none. We stop at another spot, walk a short distance into the cover, play
a
tape and out pops a very cooperative Southern Antpipit. This will be our
last
day on the tour with Braulio. We stop at the hotel for a siesta and pack
our
things into the van for the drive back to Cuiaba. We stop enroute for more
birds. Braulio is a keen birder at heart and he is determined ot get the
most
out of each day. He hears a crake in a boggy area and we work at it until
we
finally succeed in glimpsing a Russet-crowned Crake. During this pursuit
we
also see a Crowned Slaty Flycatcher and a Mouse-colored Tyrannulet.
Back in Cuiaba we drop Braulio, Steve and Willy off at the bus station.
They
will be riding an all night luxury bus to Alta Floresta. We will spend
the night
at the Hotel Diplomata again. We dine at the pizza and beer place next
door.
A word here about Brazilian pizza. They are different. None of the pizza
had
tomato sauce on them and were served with catsup and mustard on the side.
Sounds strange but they were good with catsup.
Sept. 15
The alarm jolts us from sleep at 3:45am so we can get to the airport an
hour
before our departure at 5:15. At least the hotel is only five minutes away.
At
the gate we watch the opening ceremonies for the olympics on tv. Our flight
on TAM is punctual and on the whole we are impressed with this airline.
With
the time change we arrive in Sao Paulo at 8:15. We are met at the gate
by
our translator/driver/guide-Malu. I had tried to contract Paulo Boute,
a well
respected brazilian guide, for this segment of the trip. He was unavailable
for
the dates we needed him but offered to subcontract another guide he knew.
That is how we ended up with Malu.
From the airport we travel by car via the newly completed toll highway.
This
very modern freeway system we found quite impressive. Due to the tolls,
traffic is very light. It takes us a few hours to reach Itatiaia National
Park.
Inside the park we arrive at the renowned Hotel Ype under sunny skies.
It
feels wonderful to be out of the heat and humidity, its more temperate
here.
We can wear shorts because there are very few bugs! The hotel is a is
reminiscent of a Swiss chalet. There are separate chalets available and
suites. It isn't real fancy but nice. An indoor and outdoor pool, patio
terrace,
game rooms. The food and the service here were terrific and the birding
too.
$125per night for a couple including wonderful meals in the dining room
with
feeders outside the windows and a fantastic vista.
Upon arrival, we find the feeders rich with tanagers-Green-headed,
Black-goggled, Ruby-crowned and the endemic Olive-green and
Golden-chevroned. Also here were Red-rumped Cacique and Chestnut-bellied
Euphonia. After lunch we caught up on some missed sleep, then headed into
the Atlantic Rainforest, a hotspot for endemicism in Brazil. Unfortunately
only
about 5-8% of this ecosystem is intact, the rest having been cleared for
various reasons. Our first foray here is along a trail from our hotel to
the
infamous Hotel Simon. We come upon a grove of Giant Bamboo and marvel
at its size, we're talking bamboo stalks a foot wide! Along the trail we
find
Surucua Trogon, Long-tailed Tyrant and Yellow Tyraunnulet. At the Hotel
Simon we wander around the back of the hotel and spot another
endemic-Black-legged Dacnis. Then we find the world famous feeders at the
home of the hotel administrator who is very friendly, english speaking
and
knowledgable about the birds at his feeders. He invites us to sit in front
of his
house and watch the hummingbird feeders. We see Planalto Hermit,
Long-tailed and Violet Capped Woodnymphs and Versicolored Emerald in a
matter of minutes. On the way back we scare up several Dusky-legged
Guans. Noisy Ashy-tailed Swifts ply the skies overhead.
Sept.16
I step out of our hotel room and immediately see a very striking Red-breasted
Toucan. It has rained in the night and everything is wet, damp and
surprisingly cool. From the valley below the fog creeps and soon we are
enshrouded in a thick mist. Malu and I head for the trail that leads to
the
Hotel Simon again. The jungle here is quite dense and verdant. We hear
birds
and Malu knows many of the calls. She's carrying a very long shotgun mike
and when I suggest she use it out comes a very small tape recorder. The
bird's call is recorded but upon playback I realize there isn't enough
volume to
it for the birds to hear. The antbird we are trying to entice goes unseen.
This
is bad. The tape player Braulio used was responsible for us successfully
seeing about 30 % of our species total. I've become spoiled maybe but I've
also come all this way and now we're going to miss out on a lot of birds.
Malu
is very good at birding by ear but she only knows the latin names for the
birds. This turns out to be her first experience as a bird guide. "You
hear
that?" She'll ask and then tell me the latin name. An endemic antbird goes
unseen. In a word- maddening.
We do manage some endemics this morning White-collared Foliage Gleaner
and Ferruginous Antbird and in a mixed flock of tanagers I see the stunning
Gilt-edged Tanager. Back at the feeders at the administrator's house we
see
Yellow-fronted Woodpecker, Saffron Toucanet and and Fawn-breasted
Tanager . Hummingbirds whir around us, many of them are Black Jacobin and
the aforementioned species but the prize is the endemic Brazilian Ruby.
Later in the afternoon we walk up the road from the Hotel Ype to a trailhead.
As we start up the trail we are stopped by rangers. Apparently we need
special permission to enter here. After much discussion Malu persuades
them to let us bird the trail but we must return inside of an hour. It
is very
quiet, the only birds we see are a pair of Spot-billed Toucanets.
Sept.17
The staff at the Hotel Ype are kind enough to open the dining room early
for
us this morning. They have also put together a picinic lunch for us as
we
won't return for lunch. Our destination today is Aghulas Negras-the Black
Needles. To get there we must drive an half an hour south then head east
and
back into the Itatiaia National Park via a different entrance. The road
that
leads us to this high alpine area is in bad shape. Lots of potholes, rocks
etc.
The going is slow which is fortunate because we are able to hear the
distinctive call of the Black and Gold Cotinga we stop, look up and there
it is.
Another Brazilian endemic. The road continues upward and we enjoy some
spectacular vistas. This kind of mountain scenery isn't what we expected
to
find in Brazil! We pass some campgrounds, and when I see a bright blue
bird
we stop and it turns out to be a Diademed Tanager, also we find a Sooty
Tyrannulet.
Higher up the road we stop to check out another pair of Diademeds but wait
here is something else low in a shrub. Long tail dull brown. Itatiaia Spinetail!
Another endemic. We arrive at the entry kiosk and park the car and continue
on foot. At 8700ft this is truly an alpine setting. A hummer sits on a
flowering
shrub - a lovely White-vented Violetear. A pair of noisy Rufous-capped
Antshrikes. A large finch appears and turns out to be a Great Pampa Finch
and another endemic the Velvety Black Tyrant. We seem to have the place
all to ourselves then we hear voices and see climbers on the bare rocks
above us cheering at the summit. On the hike back we see a raptor and ID
it
as a White-rumped Hawk. Back in the car we spot a Red Warbling Finch. On
the drive back we descend into a fog as thick as I've ever seen. It is
raining
back at the hotel as it what this morning when we left but we've been lucky
and have stayed out of it all day.
Sept. 18
A light rain makes for difficult birding this morning and a thick mist
makes it
more so. The only new bird we see on our early morning walk is a
Black-cheeked Gnateater. After breakfast we pack and load up the car.
Today we will travel from these mountains to the coast at Ubatuba. On our
way out of the park we stop at a small curio shop. Outside hangs a
hummingbird feeder. A tiny little hummer whirs in-its a Frilled Coquette!
And
then another bird - a Sombre Hummingbird both endemics. We leave the park
for the three hour drive to the coast. Once we're away from the mountains
the
weather clears but as we climb the coastal hills we enter the clouds. Our
intentions are to bird a state reserve here in the hills above the coast
but the
mist is so incredibly thick it would be pointless.
Somewhere below us is the coastline but we can't see it until we're right
next
to the Atlantic. Ubatuba is a resort area that stretches from south to
north for
about 40km. The jungled, steep hills meet the ocean in a dramatic way.
We
find a nice hotel walking along a stretch of beach wearing our binoculars.
By
chance we meet a gentleman who tells us he has a feeder at his house and
invites us to come and see the birds in his yard. On the way to his house
he
points to the Hotel Canoeira. It's his hotel. On the beach. Very nice.
A
bargain in the off season here at $32 a night including breakfast.
The birding at the hotel owner's house is quite good. We see our first
Brazilian Tanager, White-chinned Sapphire and Rufous-headed Tanagers.
Both tanagers being endemic. For dinner Paulo Boute suggested the Hotel
Solar. The seafood here is delicious (prawns Sao Paulo)and the landscaped
grounds around the pool are lovely. When we find that the price is the
same
low season rate as the place we're in we decide to spend the next evening,
our last night, here.
Sept.19
The hotel staff has left us a thermos of hot coffee and some pastry as
we're
up quite early. Along the road we pass a sign marking the Tropic of
Capricorn. Our intended destination is Fazenda Capricornus. We drive up
one
road, ask directions, follow them, ask directions again. Everyone is very
friendly and helpful but they keep giving us the wrong directions. I'm
getting
angrier by the minute. I expect my guide to know her way around here but
she doesn't. We're wasting prime birding time lost. A brief stop helps
placate
me a little when she hears a White-bearded Manakin. There are several
males on a lek popping around madly, making sounds like the snapping of
a
twig. Finally one pauses long enough for me to get a look. Back in the
car we
ask directions once again. We never did find the fazenda!
Finally we drive into an agronomy reserve and get permission to bird there.
I'm
fit to be tied and birding helps calm me as it usually does. We see a lot
of
thrushes-Creamy-bellied, Yellow-legged and Eastern Slaty. In a mixed flock
of tanagers we find Brassy-breasted and Red-necked Tanagers, both
brilliantly colorful. Lemon -chested Greenlet is the only other new addition
to
our trip list here.
Malu suggests trying another locale so we get back in the car. We lose
another 45 minutes driving south. By now its 11:30 and the birds have quieted
down. We park at on old sugar cane mill and walk up into the jungle. Its
lovely in here but the heat of the day is upon us. We see a White-eyed
Foliage Gleaner and not much else. For lunch we drive to a small beach
where there is small thatched place that serves seafood. We order lunch,
wade into the water and enjoy the spectacular view of these jungled slopes
reaching down to the water's edge. Offshore we see Kelp Gulls and South
American Terns following a fishing boat. The seafood is incredible-Prawns
in a
Heart of Palm sauce and a seafood stew. We nap on the beach before
heading back to Ubatuba. We check out of one hotel and check into the
Hotel Solar. A sunset walk on the beach takes us to where a creek enters
the ocean and here we spot a Masked Water Tyrant which wraps up the day.
Sept. 20
Our last day in Brazil I decide to have a vacation. We bird around the
neighborhood. I'm not interested in getting in the car and driving anywhere
because we have a three and a half hour drive back to Sao Paulo this
afternoon and don't want a repeat of yesterday's fiasco. Besides the Hotel
Solar is so charming, Laura loves it here. We have the whole place to
ourselves so we lounge around the pool reading. For lunch we head into
town
for one more go at a churrascaria. A siesta and then its back to Sao Paulo.
As we cross the mountains we enter the clouds again but somehow the mist
is even thicker. We can barely make out the car 10 feet in front of us.
Large
trucks coming from the other direction appear out of nowhere.With a huge
sigh of relief we descend to the other side of the coastal hills where
it is
sunny and clear. We spend a few hours at the airport then catch the redeye
back to the U.S.A.
Field Guide: The only comprehensive field guide for Brazil that I was
able to
locate is Todas as Aves do Brasil by Deodata Souza. The text is in
portuguese but english and scientific names are included. The artwork in
this
book is only passable but all the birds of Brazil can be found here. It
is
available for purchase from the Boute Expeditions and Pantanal Bird Club
websites. The bookcover is comical and my understanding is that it is this
way because the author wanted it to appeal to children. Birds of Southern
South America and Antarctica by Martin de la Pena only covers southern
Brazil.
Local Guides: Despite the incredible wealth of avifauna local professional
guides are few. I prefer to employ local guides and leave more of my tourist
dollar in the country I am visiting. I feel that ecotourism should benefit
local
economies as much as possible. This worked out quite well for the Serra
das
Araras, Pantanal and Chapada segments of our trip under the guidance of
the
Pantanal Bird Club but there is room for improvement on the Itatatia and
Ubatuba segments. A shotgun mike and tape recorder playback are a must.
In the course of our 16 day journey we logged 394 species total. 16 of
these
were endemics. Species sighted are found below.
Key: p=Pantanal of Pocone c=Chapada dos Guimares s=Serra das Araras
i=Itatiaia National Park u=Ubatuba *=endemic
Greater Rhea Rhea americana p
Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui s
Small-billed Tinamou Crypturellus parvirostris s
Tataupa Tinamou Crypturellus tataupa c
Red-winged Tinamou Rhynchotus rufescens c
Chaco Chachalaca Ortalis canicollis p
Spix's Guan Penelope jacquacu s
Dusky-legged Guan Penelope obscura i
Chestnut-bellied Guan Penelope ochrogaster p*
Blue-throated Piping-Guan Pipile cumanensis p
Red-throated Piping-Guan Pipile cujubi p
Bare-faced Curassow Crax fasciolata p
Southern Screamer Chauna torquata p
Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata p
Brazilian Teal Amazonetta brasiliensis s,p
White-wedged Piculet Picumnus albosquamatus s,p
White Woodpecker Melanerpes candidus p
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker Melanerpes cruentatus s,p
Yellow-fronted Woodpecker Melanerpes flavifrons i
Little Woodpecker Veniliornis passerinus s
Golden-green Woodpecker Piculus chrysochloros s
Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris p,c
Pale-crested Woodpecker Celeus lugubris p
Cream-colored Woodpecker Celeus flavus s
Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus p
Crimson-crested Woodpecker Campephilus melanoleucos p
Lettered Aracari Pteroglossus inscriptus s
Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis s,p,c
Saffron Toucanet Baillonius bailloni i
Spot-billed Toucanet Selenidera maculirostris i
Yellow-ridged Toucan Ramphastos culminatus c
Red-breasted Toucan Ramphastos dicolorus i
Toco Toucan Ramphastos toco s,p
Rufous-tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda s,c
White-eared Puffbird Nystalus chacuru s,c
Striolated Puffbird Nystalus striolatus s
Black-fronted Nunbird Monasa nigrifrons s,p,c
Swallow-wing Chelidoptera tenebrosa s
Black-tailed Trogon Trogon melanurus s
White-tailed Trogon Trogon viridis s
Collared Trogon Trogon collaris s
Surucua Trogon Trogon surrucura i
Blue-crowned Trogon Trogon curucui s,c
Blue-crowned Motmot Momotus momota s,c,i
Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata p
Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona s,p
Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana p
Green-and-rufous Kingfisher Chloroceryle inda p
American Pygmy Kingfisher Chloroceryle aenea p
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana s,p,c
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani s,p,c
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira s,p,c
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia p
Hyacinth Macaw Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus p
Red-and-green Macaw Ara chloroptera c
Blue-and-yellow Macaw Ara ararauna p
Blue-winged Macaw Ara maracana p,c
Yellow-collared Macaw Ara auricollis p,c
Red-shouldered Macaw Ara nobilis s
Blue-crowned Parakeet Aratinga acuticaudata p
White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus c
Dusky-headed Parakeet Aratinga weddellii s
Peach-fronted Parakeet Aratinga aurea p
Monk Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus p
Yellow-chevroned Parakeet Brotogeris chiriri s,p,c
Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus s,c
Scaly-headed Parrot Pionus maximiliani p
Blue-fronted Parrot Amazona aestiva s,p
Great Dusky Swift Cypseloides senex c
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris c
Biscutate Swift Streptoprocne biscutata c
Grey-rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris c
Ashy-tailed Swift Chaetura andrei i
Fork-tailed Palm-Swift Tachornis squamata s
Planalto Hermit Phaethornis pretrei i
Buff-bellied Hermit Phaethornis subochraceus c
Cinnamon-throated Hermit Phaethornis nattereri s
Swallow-tailed Hummingbird Eupetomena macroura s,u
Black Jacobin Melanotrochilus fuscus i
White-vented Violet-ear Colibri serrirostris c,i
Frilled Coquette Lophornis magnificus i*
Black-bellied Thorntail Popelairia langsdorffi s
Fork-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania furcata s
Long-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania watertonii i
Violet-capped Woodnymph Thalurania glaucopis i
Rufous-throated Sapphire Hylocharis sapphirina s
White-chinned Sapphire Hylocharis cyanus u
White-throated Hummingbird Leucochloris albicollis i
White-tailed Goldenthroat Polytmus guainumbi p
Versicolored Emerald Amazilia versicolor i
Glittering-throated Emerald Amazilia fimbriata s,p
Sombre Hummingbird Aphantochroa cirrochloris i,u*
Brazilian Ruby Clytolaema rubricauda i*
Horned Sungem Heliactin bilophum c
Long-billed Starthroat Heliomaster longirostris s
Amethyst Woodstar Calliphlox amethystina c
Black-banded Owl Strix huhula s
Spectacled Owl Pulsatrix perspicillata s
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium brasilianum i
Burrowing Owl Speotyto cunicularia s,c
Great Potoo Nyctibius grandis p
Common Potoo Nyctibius griseus p
Band-tailed Nighthawk Nyctiprogne leucopyga p
Nacunda Nighthawk Podager nacunda p
Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis s,p
Ocellated Poorwill Nyctiphrynus ocellatus s
Spot-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus maculicaudus p
Little Nightjar Caprimulgus parvulus s
Scissor-tailed Nightjar Hydropsalis brasiliana s
Scaled Pigeon Columba speciosa s
Picazuro Pigeon Columba picazuro p,c
Pale-vented Pigeon Columba cayennensis p,c
Plumbeous Pigeon Columba plumbea s,c
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti s,pc
Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui p
Blue Ground-Dove Claravis pretiosa s,p,c
Long-tailed Ground-Dove Uropelia campestris p
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi p
Grey-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla p,c
Sunbittern Eurypyga helias p
Limpkin Aramus guarauna p
Red-legged Seriema Cariama cristata c
Russet-crowned Crake Anurolimnas viridis c
Grey-necked Wood-Rail Aramides cajanea p
Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca s
Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes s,p
Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria p
Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana s,p
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis s,p,c
Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus u
South American Tern Sterna hirundinacea u
Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex p
Grey-headed Kite Leptodon cayanensis s
Pearl Kite Gampsonyx swainsonii p
Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis p
Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea s,p
Bicolored Hawk Accipiter bicolor s
Crane Hawk Geranospiza caerulescens p
White Hawk Leucopternis albicollis s
Great Black-Hawk Buteogallus urubitinga s,p
Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis p
Black-collared Hawk Busarellus nigricollis p
Grey Hawk Buteo plagiatus s
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris s,p
White-rumped Hawk Buteo leucorrhous i
White-tailed Hawk Buteo albicaudatus i
Black Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus s
Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans p
Southern Caracara Caracara plancus s,p,c
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima s,p,c
American Kestrel Falco sparverius s,p,c
Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis p,c
Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis p
Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus s
Brown Booby Sula leucogaster u
Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus p
Rufescent Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma lineatum p
Boat-billed Heron Cochlearius cochlearia p
Agami Heron Agamia agami p
Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax p
Whistling Heron Syrigma sibilatrix p
Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea p
Snowy Egret Egretta thula p
Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi p
Great Egret Ardea alba p
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis s,p,c
Striated Heron Butorides striatus p
Bare-faced Ibis Phimosus infuscatus p
Plumbeous Ibis Theristicus caerulescens s,p
Buff-necked Ibis Theristicus caudatus s,p
Green Ibis Mesembrinibis cayennensis s,p
Roseate Spoonbill Ajaia ajaja p
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus s,p,c
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura p
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus p
King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa s
Wood Stork Mycteria americana p,c
Maguari Stork Ciconia maguari p
Jabiru Jabiru mycteria p
Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens u
Sepia-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon amaurocephalus s,c
Slaty-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon superciliaris c
Stripe-necked Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus striaticollis p
Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer p
Rusty-fronted Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum latirostre p
Southern Antpipit Corythopis delalandi c
Mouse-colored Tyrannulet Phaeomyias murina c
Yellow Tyrannulet Capsiempis flaveola i
Campo Suiriri Suiriri affinis p
New species Suiriri ? c
Forest Elaenia Myiopagis gaimardii p,c
Greenish Elaenia Myiopagis viridicata c
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster c
White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps c
Plain-crested Elaenia Elaenia cristata s,p
Sooty Tyrannulet Serpophaga nigricans i,u
White-crested Tyrannulet Serpophaga subcristata c
Plain Tyrannulet Inezia inornata p
Short-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant Myiornis ecaudatus s
Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens p,c
Yellow-margined Flycatcher Tolmomyias assimilis s
Bran-colored Flycatcher Myiophobus fasciatus i
Swallow Flycatcher Hirundinea bellicosa c,i
Fuscous Flycatcher Cnemotriccus fuscatus p
Euler's Flycatcher Lathrotriccus euleri p,i
Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus p
Grey Monjita Xolmis cinerea c
White-rumped Monjita Xolmis velata p
Velvety Black-Tyrant Knipolegus nigerrimus i
Crested Black-Tyrant Knipolegus lophotes c
Masked Water-Tyrant Fluvicola nengeta u
White-headed Marsh-Tyrant Arundinicola leucocephala p
Streamer-tailed Tyrant Gubernetes yetapa p
Long-tailed Tyrant Colonia colonus i,u
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus p
Rufous-tailed Attila Attila phoenicurus u
Dull-capped Attila Attila bolivianus s,p
Rufous Casiornis Casiornis rufa p
Sirystes Sirystes sibilator c
Brown-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus tyrannulus p
White-throated Kingbird Tyrannus albogularis s
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus p,c,u
Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana s,p,c
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua s,p,c
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus s,c
Rusty-margined Flycatcher Myiozetetes cayanensis s,p,c
Lesser Kiskadee Philohydor lictor s,p,c
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus s,p,c
White-naped Xenopsaris Xenopsaris albinucha p
Crested Becard Pachyramphus validus s,p,c
Black-tailed Tityra Tityra cayana s,p,c
Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata s,p,c
Black-crowned Tityra Tityra inquisitor s
Black-and-gold Cotinga Tijuca atra i*
Bare-necked Fruitcrow Gymnoderus foetidus s
Band-tailed Manakin Pipra fasciicauda p,c
Helmeted Manakin Antilophia galeata p,c
White-bearded Manakin Manacus manacus u
Flame-crested Manakin Heterocercus linteatus c
Great Antshrike Taraba major p,c
Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus p
Rufous-winged Antshrike Thamnophilus torquatus c
Rufous-capped Antshrike Thamnophilus ruficapillus i
Planalto Slaty Antshrike Thamnophilus pelzelni p
Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis p
Large-billed Antwren Herpsilochmus longirostris p,c
Rusty-backed Antwren Formicivora rufa c
Ferruginous Antbird Drymophila ferruginea i*
White-backed Fire-eye Pyriglena leuconota s,c
Mato Grosso Antbird Cercomacra melanaria p
Warbling Antbird Hypocnemis cantator s
Band-tailed Antbird Hypocnemoides maculicauda p
Black-throated Antbird Myrmeciza atrothorax s
Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus p
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus s,p,c
Itatiaia Thistletail Schizoeaca moreirae i*
Chotoy Spinetail Schoeniophylax phryganophila p
Sooty-fronted Spinetail Synallaxis frontalis c
Pale-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis albescens c
Cinereous-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis hypospodia p
White-lored Spinetail Synallaxis albilora p
Rusty-backed Spinetail Cranioleuca vulpina p
Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomea p
Rufous-fronted Thornbird Phacellodomus rufifrons p
Greater Thornbird Phacellodomus ruber p
Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper Lochmias nematura c
Rufous Cacholote Pseudoseisura cristata p
White-collared Foliage-gleaner Anabazenops fuscus i*
White-eyed Foliage-gleaner Automolus leucophthalmus u
Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans p,c
Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus p,c
White-throated Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes albicollis i
Great Rufous Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes major p
Planalto Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes platyrostris c
Straight-billed Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus picus p
Buff-throated Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus guttatus p
Narrow-billed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes angustirostris p
Lesser Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes fuscus i
Lineated Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes albolineatus p
Red-billed Scythebill Campylorhamphus trochilirostris p
Black-cheeked Gnateater Conopophaga melanops i*
Collared Crescent-chest Melanopareia torquata c
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis s,c
Lemon-chested Greenlet Hylophilus griseiventris u
Purplish Jay Cyanocorax cyanomelas s,p,c
Curl-crested Jay Cyanocorax cristatellus c
Yellow-legged Thrush Platycichla flavipes u
Eastern Slaty-Thrush Turdus subalaris u
Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris s,p,c,u
Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas c
Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus u
Cocoa Thrush Turdus fumigatus s
Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus s,p,c
Black-capped Donacobius Donacobius atricapillus p
Thrush-like Wren Campylorhynchus turdinus s,p,c
Moustached Wren Thryothorus genibarbis p,c
Buff-breasted Wren Thryothorus leucotis p,c
Fawn-breasted Wren Thryothorus guarayanus p
Masked Gnatcatcher Polioptila dumicola p
White-winged Swallow Tachycineta albiventer p
Grey-breasted Martin Progne chalybea p,c
Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera u
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca c
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis s,p,c
Yellowish Pipit Anthus lutescens p
Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild u
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis p,c,s
Grassland Sparrow Ammodramus humeralis p,c
Pectoral Sparrow Arremon taciturnus c
Saffron-billed Sparrow Arremon flavirostris i
Red-capped Cardinal Paroaria gularis p
Yellow-billed Cardinal Paroaria capitata p
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi p
Masked Yellowthroat Geothlypis aequinoctialis s,c
White-bellied Warbler Basileuterus hypoleucus p,c
Flavescent Warbler Basileuterus flaveolus p,c
Chivi Vireo p,c
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola p,c,i,u
Chestnut-vented Conebill Conirostrum speciosum c
Black-faced Tanager Schistochlamys melanopis c
White-banded Tanager Neothraupis fasciata c
White-rumped Tanager Cypsnagra hirundinacea c
Magpie Tanager Cissopis leveriana s,c,i,u
Guira Tanager Hemithraupis guira s
Rufous-headed Tanager Hemithraupis ruficapilla u*
Olive-green Tanager Orthogonys chloricterus i*
Grey-headed Tanager Eucometis penicillata p,c
White-shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus luctuosus s
Ruby-crowned Tanager Tachyphonus coronatus i
White-lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus s
Black-goggled Tanager Trichothraupis melanops i
Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo p,c
Brazilian Tanager Ramphocelus bresilius u*
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca s,p,c,u
Golden-chevroned Tanager Thraupis ornata i*
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum s,p,c
Diademed Tanager Stephanophorus diadematus i
Fawn-breasted Tanager Pipraeidea melanonota i
Thick-billed Euphonia Euphonia laniirostris c
Rufous-bellied Euphonia Euphonia rufiventris i
Turquoise Tanager Tangara mexicana i
Green-headed Tanager Tangara seledon i,u
Red-necked Tanager Tangara cyanocephala u
Brassy-breasted Tanager Tangara desmaresti u*
Gilt-edged Tanager Tangara cyanoventris i*
Burnished-buff Tanager Tangara cayana i
Blue-necked Tanager Tangara cyanicollis s
Black-legged Dacnis Dacnis nigripes i
Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus c,i,u
Coal-crested Finch Charitospiza eucosma c
Red-crested Finch Coryphospingus cucullatus p
Red-rumped Warbling-Finch Poospiza lateralis i
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola p
Great Pampa-Finch Embernagra platensis i
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina s,p,c
Plumbeous Seedeater Sporophila plumbea c
Rusty-collared Seedeater Sporophila collaris p
Lined Seedeater Sporophila lineola u
Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens c
Grey-and-chestnut Seedeater Sporophila hypochroma p
Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus s
Greyish Saltator Saltator coerulescens p,c
Green-winged Saltator Saltator similis c
Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus p
Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela s,p,c
Red-rumped Cacique Cacicus haemorrhous i
Solitary Cacique Cacicus solitarius p
Epaulet Oriole Icterus cayanensis s
Troupial Icterus icterus s,p
Unicolored Blackbird Agelaius cyanopus s,p
White-browed Blackbird Leistes superciliaris p
Scarlet-headed Blackbird Amblyramphus holosericeus p
Chopi Blackbird Gnorimopsar chopi s,p,c
Bay-winged Cowbird Molothrus badius p
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis s,p,c,i,u
Giant Cowbird Molothrus oryzivora p