New Zealand Nov. 28- Dec. 19, 2007

Roger Wolfe

New Zealand has been on my list of destinations for some time but the real impetus to finally go I must attribute to seabirds. The country list is small although there are a good number of endemics. The real draw for me was to see some of the species we see every summer and fall in the Monterey Bay on their nesting grounds and to familiarize myself with possible vagrants to North America. I was also on a quest in that I was doing an albatross big year. In that I work for Monterey Seabirds the trip was a bit of a busmanÕs holiday.

New Zealand is also a necessary destination for anyone hoping to see all the bird families of the world. Kiwis, New Zealand Wrens and NZ Wattlebirds and Stitchbird are endemic families.

*denotes endemics

Nov. 30

My wife Laura and I arrive early in the morning the day after leaving California. The flight duration is only 12 hours long but you do cross the International Date Line. We leave the airport by 7am in our used Jucy Rental Car. Five minutes from the terminal are the Mangere Sewage Ponds. My poor wife! She just cannot believe that this is how we are beginning the trip and she will get a lot of mileage out of telling everyone along the way about how I started our trip. (the travails of a non birding spouse!)

But of course to my birderÕs way of thinking this makes perfect sense. WeÕll spend part of the morning at Mangere and then drive down to the infamous shell banks at Miranda for high tide around noon.

Walking along the path at Mangere is all very nice. As far as sewage plants go it is very clean and the ponds are extensive but with the tide out the shorebirds are for the most part too distant to see. Fortunately there are a few in close enough that I can ID. The most numerous are BAR-TAILED GODWITS and RED (LESSER) KNOTS. Waterfowl include the endemic PARADISE SHELDUCK *and GREY TEAL*. We also see our first PUKEKO (PURPLE SWAMPHEN), WHITE-FACED HERON, BLACK SWAN, AUSTRALASIAN HARRIER, WELCOME SWALLOW, MASKED LAPWING,and SOUTH ISLAND PIED OYSTERCATCHERS*( we will see these species nearly wherever we go).

I should mention that the planting around the ponds are rife with European introductions that I mention here that were ubiquitous throughout our trip: BLACKBIRD, HOUSE SPARROW, STARLING, SKYLARK, SONG THRUSH, GOLDFINCH, GREENFINCH, CHAFFINCH and ASIAN MYNAH. A 45 minute stroll takes us out to the hide overlooking some shell banks where we find our first NEW ZEALAND DOTTEREL* , LITTLE PIED SHAG* and SACRED KINGFISHER.

Arriving back at the car the rain which has been threatening finally lets loose. On the way to Miranda we see our first AUSTRALIAN MAGPIE.

We arrive at the Miranda Shorebird Centre an hour before high tide. This is perhaps New ZealandÕs finest shorebirding area. We are here to hopefully see one bird in particular, the endemic and the most unique of all plovers, the Wrybill. On our way out to the Stilt Ponds we encounter a pair of AUSTRALASIAN SHOVELERS. The tide is visibly rising into the mangroves but we fail to find any Banded Rails. In addition to a few PIED STILTS at the ponds there are thousands of Barwits to sort through. I manage to find a few SHARP-TAILED SANDPIPERS amongst the hundreds of RED KNOTS. It starts to rain again and that sends Laura back to the car while I seek shelter in the hide.

There is a pair of New Zealanders inside having tea. I ask about the Wrybills and they inform me I might have to wait an hour or so for the tide to push them up on top of the shell bank as they are likely on the other side presently. We can see a flock of WHITE-FRONTED TERNS and BLACK-BILLED GULLS along with a couple of CASPIAN TERNS.

Being the impatient American that I am and given that having my wife wait in the car for an hour is not going to go over well I exit the hide and start to head back. Fortunately I catch some movement along the top of the shell bank. The scope view is of a RUDDY TURNSTONE but nearby I see another bird with its bill under the wing. I wait and when it stirs I see the unique and aptly named WRYBILL*.

We stop in Kaiaua for Fish and Chips before driving back to Auckland along the coastal scenic route with awesome views of the Coromandel Peninsula. It takes some doing to get through the gridlocked Auckland to the Whangaparoa Peninsula where we are staying at the Manly Bayview B&B (highly recommended).

Dec. 1 Tiritiri Matangi

Our host Chris Elkins has arranged for us to visit the avian jewel of New Zealand. Tiritiri Matangi is an offshore island just a short ferry ride from nearby Gulf Harbor. Formerly it was denuded of forest for a dairy operation but volunteers planted more than a quarter of a million trees between 1984-94 so that now it is 60% forested. Subsequently all mammalian predators have been removed and some of the rarest birds in New Zealand and thus the world have been successfully introduced. No trip to NZ is complete without a visit to Tiri.

While waiting for the ferry our first AUSTRALASIAN GANNET plummets into the water beside the dock where there are both BLACK-BACKED(Kelp) and RED-BILLED GULLS* present. We see many more of gannets when we encounter a pod of Short-beaked Common Dolphins driving fish to the surface. Shortly before reaching the island I also spot several LITTLE BLUE PENGUINS* in the water and 3 dark-morph PARASITIC JAEGERS. (Apparently 80% are dark morph in NZ)

When everyone is ashore I see that Greg, the famous TAKAHE* of Tiri, is at the dock to greet us. Actually he is on the lookout for our lunches which he is known to steal. Tuis*, a species of honeyeater, flit about and for the first time we hear their squeaky gate calls.

After an introduction to Tiri by one of the docents we walk a short distance up the hill to a small pond and find a pair of the rare BROWN TEAL*. Chattering in the bush behind the pond reveals a flock of RED-FRONTED PARAKEETS*. We move up the Wattle Track seeing numerous WHITEHEADS* and BELLBIRDS*. IÕm thrilled to see STITCHBIRDS*. These monotypic birds are a new family for me. So are the SADDLEBACKS*, members of the NZ Wattlebirds. The real prize on our walk are the pair of KOKAKO* the other member of the NZ Wattlebird family. They are critically endangered. I even manage to get some photos. I should mention that many of the birds we encounter exhibit little or no fear of us but none more so than the little NZ ROBINS* that walk right up to us on the path and follow us. The BROWN QUAIL we flush are a bit more skittish. A very slow pace finds us at the lighthouse and guest center for lunch. There are Kiwis that can be seen on Tiri but this requires an overnight stay at the bunkhouse. But my wife alas is no bunkhouse girl and I have plans later in the trip to find Kiwis.

We walk back to the dock via another track and once we are near the beach we enjoy peeking in the glass covered, man-made nests of LITTLE BLUE PENGUINS. Both of us agree that the visit to Tiri was one of our tripÕs highlights.

Dec. 2 Hauraki Gulf Pelagic

This is the day IÕd been looking forward to for some time. After reading Chris GaskinÕs trip reports from the Hauraki Gulf on the Seabirds listserv for the last few years I made sure this pelagic trip was part of my NZ itinerary.

I arrive early at Sandspit Harbor where I am befriended by a PACIFIC BLACK (Grey) Duck* before Chris and his wife Karen Baird of Pterodroma Tours pull in. IÕve had the good sense to book a wine tasting and sculpture garden tour for my wife today so I can spend the day on the ocean guilt free.

Skipper Brett Rathe welcomes our group of three participants. Peter Roberts, trip leader for VENT, is on board along with Stefan, a German, currently residing in Norway.

And weÕre off towards Little Barrier Island. The first seabirds we see aside from gannets are FLUTTERING SHEARWATERS*. We stay under power at a good speed to get out to where we need to be. I struggle to try and get a look at some of the birds but as it turns out I should just relax and wait. Brett eventually slows the boat and flying here and there we see several COOKÕS PETRELS* which nest on nearby Little Barrier. I must say IÕm a bit in awe seeing all these as they are one of the most elusive ticks for North American birders. (At one point we see a flock of several dozen sitting on the water!)

We stop for a chum session and IÕm surprised to see a dozen FLESH-FOOTED SHEARWATERS quibble over the shark liver being dispensed off the stern. Where can I get some of that stuff for the Monterey Seabirds trips? IÕve never seen Fleshies being this gregarious. A few BLACK(ParkinsonÕs) PETRELS* arrive and we get some fantastic comparative views of these two species. BULLERÕS SHEARWATERS* are fun to see here on their nesting grounds.

Moving further offshore in toward Great Barrier Island another chum session brings in many WHITE-FACED STORM-PETRELS, FAIRY PRIONS and a LITTLE SHEARWATER that keeps its distance from the boat. Soon afterwards we come to a stretch of water where we find aggregations of COMMON DIVING-PETRELS. When the kettle is hot we stop for tea and cookies and soon after spot a large pod of COMMON DOLPHIN.

 

It is a lovely day with the sun out and almost no wind at all. That creates a problem in that without the wind the smell of the chum and fish oil does not carry. On the way back towards Sandspit Brett goes at the chore of chumming with a vengeance. HeÕs chopping up Barracuda and shark livers whilst cussing at the Fleshies and Red-billed Gulls under his breath. This is the spot where they have been seeing New Zealand Storm-petrels. Until recently these birds were thought to be extinct. In fact the week before my arrival Karen tagged some of these birds in an effort to solve the mystery of where they nest.

IÕve got to hand it to Brett, he is not going back to the harbor without finding us a NZ Storm-petrel but despite his solid effort without wind it doesnÕt happen. He does succeed in attracting a single NORTHERN GIANT PETREL before the beers and chocolate cake come out.

Once we are underway again we run across a couple of cooperativefeeding BRYDEÕS WHALES. This day on the Hauraki Gulf has been everything IÕd hoped for even without seeing the NZ Stormies. Highly recommended! http://www.nzseabirds.com

 

Dec. 3 North of Auckland

No solid plans were made in advance for this day giving us a buffer in case we were weathered out for either of the two previous days. So today is a free day and our only chance to explore some of the lovely northland.

At Wenderholm Park an EASTERN ROSELLA welcomes us but the Banded Rail evades us. Several more pudgy NEW ZEALAND PIGEONS are around and more RED-FRONTED PARAKEETS.

We drive an hour or so north to the Dome Forest and park at the restaurant at the summit of Highway 1. A steep climb up several courses of stairs through the lovely intact forest we see our first FANTAIL and hear the distinctive call of the TOMTIT*. We also see more SILVEREYES here.

Back to the car we drive north to Wellsford and then head east to Pakiri Beach. Chris Gaskin divulged that this is our best bet to find the rarest tern in New Zealand. As we approach the shoreline we look to our left to see a fenced off area that is being looked after by a warden. There in the midst of the enclosure is a single New Zealand FAIRY TERN* on the nest as well as more NZ DOTTERELS and VARIABLE OYSTERCATCHERS*.

I have to say that Pakiri is the loveliest stretch of sandy beach we find in NZ and the view of the offshore islands is memorable.

For lunch we stop at the charming village of Matakana and then drive back to the B&B for a late afternoon siesta.

 

Stitchbird, Tiritir Matangi Dec. 3

Dec. 4 Travel day to Taupo

Dec. 5 Taupo to Wanganui

We get an early start and visit Opepe Reserve just outside of Taupo. This small remnant forest gives a glimpse of what NZ must have been like before it was deforested. Most of the ŅforestsÓ we have seen in our travels south of Auckland have been of vast Monterey Pine plantations where the trees are planted in precise rows. Many of the native bird species are not adapted to these man-made monoculture tree farms

There are some very large and impressive trees at Opepe and here we find the first RIFLEMAN*. The family of NZ Wrens is another endemic family of birds. There are also quite a few Tuis about and all of their territorial thrashing about takes some getting used to. We also get our first decent look at a GREY WARBLER* here.

Back on our south bound route we stop along the eastern shore of Lake Taupo. The largest lake on the North Island is reminiscent to this Californian of Lake Tahoe. A stop at Frethey Drive produces a pair of FERNBIRDS between the highway and the parking lot but it takes some effort. I also came across introduced COMMON REDPOLL here. Scoping from the lakeside parking area produced several NEW ZEALAND DABCHICKS* and many BLACK SWANS

Leaving Lake Taupo behind we get only occasional glimpses of the volcanoes at Tongariro National Park. We make a few stops looking for our next target species but no luck so we continue along Highway 4 to Ohuru Rd. I stop at the metal bridge at kilometer 16 and a fishing guide stops to inquire if I am looking for a spot to fish.

ŅIÕm looking for Blue Ducks,Ó I reply.

He tells me he has just seen a family of them and tells me to go past the metal bridge 1/2K to Raetahi Domain. Upon our arrival there a birthday party is in progress. One of the mothers asks if I am looking for a Blue Duck and I reply in the affirmative. She calls her son over and he tells me they are just upstream a short distance. Talk about being led to the target!

A few minutes of walking upstream I find the family group of 5 BLUE DUCKS*, the NZ equivalent of the South American Torrent Duck of mountain rivers.

Back on the highway we proceed to Wanganui and after some doing make our way to Bushy Park. The predator fence is right out of Jurassic Park. We have the large Edwardian Mansion B&B much to ourselves. Unfortunately it proceeds to rain buckets and we donÕt have the opportunity to walk the trails here at all. Fortunately on the way in I spot our only NEW ZEALAND FALCON* of the trip. Bushy Park should be considered in the near future as a good place to find North Island Kiwi as they have just released a dozen birds and some Saddlebacks and Takahes as well.

http://www.bushypark-homestead.co.nz/

Dec. 6

It is still raining upon our departure this morning. We get an early start to afford time to stop at Foxton to do some shorebirding en route to Wellington to make the ferry crossing to the South Island.

The weather is still poor in Foxton and the shorebirding a disappointment-more Barwits and Knots.

We end up speeding to make it to the ferry at the appointed time only to find it has been delayed an hour and half. While watching the ferry arrive I see that the seas are not going to be kind today. There is a stiff wind blowing and whitecaps galore.

Indeed, once we are out conditions are bad for travel but quite good for seabirds. I find some company up on the top deck with some birders from Namibia. We are out in a gale! It is victory at sea. We need to hang on or be blown off the boat.

Right out of the ferry terminal our first HUTTONÕS SHEARWATER* careens by. Once we are well out in the channel IÕm surprised to feel this large boat roll in the rough seas. The many SALVINÕS ALBATROSSES* seem to thrive in these conditions as do the SOOTY SHEARWATERS*and both GREY-FACED* and WESTLAND PETRELS*.( I canÕt say we have the best looks but I will get upgrades soon enough)

I had been thinking the crossing wasnÕt so bad until we arrive in Picton. There are branches and leaves strewn about the streets. The innkeeper at the Jasmine Court Hotel tells us that the school was closed today when it appeared the roof was about to blow off! ŅMust have been an interesting crossing,Ó she says.

It was and IÕve said nothing about the spectacular scenery of the Marlborough Sounds, loved it. Wish I had scheduled a day to further explore them.

Dec. 7 Picton to Kaikoura

Today is the day IÕve been looking forward for quite some time. In seabirding the name Kaikoura is synonymous with Vallhala. For the pelagic addict this is the place to be.

It is a lovely drive from Picton. We stop on the coastal highway to observe NEW ZEALAND FUR SEALS hauled out on the rocks.

Finally we arrive in Kaikoura and check in for the afternoon trip with Whale Watch Kaikoura.

I have to say how impressed I am with the whale watching operation. Apparently the Maori who run the operation started with inflatable crafts but now they have four really nice catamarans and a bustling headquarters from where we are bused to the dock.

I bristle a bit at being required to stay seated in the cabin on the way out but at this speed I would have a hard time getting on anything. It seems too easy to find our prey using a hydrophone to locate the clicks of the male SPERM WHALE. When the captain stops hearing the coda we start looking for the whale at the surface. He then motors the boat to a good viewing point and we watch it at the surface for a good ten minutes before it lifts its flukes and dives. There are some birds flying about such as more SALVINÕS ALBATROSS*, HUTTONÕS SHEARWATERS*, CAPE PIGEONS (aka Pintado Petrels)and an upgrade on GREY-FACED PETREL*.

When the Sperm Whale dives we motor over closer to shore where there is a large pod of DUSKY DOLPHINS that come right up to our boat. Many of them engage in arial acrobatics. On a nearby boat we watch swimmers enter the water to swim with them. This would be the Dolphin Encounter concession.

Dec. 8 Kaikoura Pelagics!

Finally here is the day IÕve been so looking forward to. At 6 am I meet Gary Melville of Oceanwings/Albatross Encounter in the plush Encounter building on the esplanade. Two other participants and I load into the van and weÕre off for the south harbor. We board the boat, a tractor backs us off the boat ramp and weÕre underway.

Gary checks some nearby rocks for the Yellow-eyed Penguin that is often seen. Apparently ŅPsychoÓ the penguin is not right. Gary has observed him attacking anything that comes ashore in his vicinity-fur seals included. He has only one good eye that might explain his madness but we see no sign of him this morning but do see some PIED SHAGS*.

On the way out we are passed by legions of HUTTONÕS SHEARWATERS* that nest in the mountains behind Kaikoura. Gary cuts the engines and a GIBSONÕS (Wandering) ALBATROSS and a NORTHERN GIANT PETREL land at the stern. They obviously recognize this vessel. We toss the chum bag filled with frozen salmon over the back and more birds arrive: CAPE PIGEONS, SALVINÕS, BLACK-BROWED and NEW ZEALAND WHITE-CAPPED ALBATROSS* and a few WESTLAND PETRELS*.

I have to say that IÕm a bit overwhelmed. IÕve heard so much about Kaikoura. It proves to be everything IÕd hoped for. Check out my video collage at: http://www.motionbox.com/filings?folder_id=4890011

 

We motor over to where a fishing vessel is bringing in its catch and find a nice young ANTIPODEAN (Wandering) ALBATROSS and WHITE-CHINNED PETRELS. A couple of GREY-FACED PETRELS zoom by and I relish the opportunity to compare them with SOOTY SHEARWATERS.

A SOUTHERN GIANT PETREL flies in and squabbles for the chum. These Giant Petrels are aggressive with each other but usually defer to the albatrosses. A single NORTHERN and 3 SOUTHERN ROYAL ALBATROSS fly in but keep their distance from the frenzy at the stern. 3 ARCTIC SKUAS fly by and just before heading back to the ramp a CAMPBELLÕS (Black-browed) ALBATROSS* is our eighth species of albatross for the morning. http://www.oceanwings.co.nz/albatross/

 

Other birds seen this morning are BLACK-BACKED GULLS and dense flock of WHITE-FRONTED TERNS.

Back at the boat ramp the tractor is waiting for us. This process is faster than tying a boat to the dock!

I signed up for the Dolphin Encounter swim with dolphins for later in the afternoon but it gets cancelled when the winds come up. My lunch of Blue Cod at the Encounter Cafˇ is memorable and recommended.

We are staying at Endeavor Heights B&B and the view from our room of the mountains and sea is breathtaking. Kaikoura is lovely!

 

Dec. 9 Kaikoura

ItÕs more of the same amazing pelagic birding with Gary this morning. I allowed a few days in Kaikoura to ensure that in the case of foul weather IÕd have another day to get out. Oceanwings has a minimum requirement of two participants and I am the only one today. But Gary knows a pelagic addict when he sees one and heÕs got permission from his boss to take me out solo.

Gary and I have a fantastic time telling each other tales of our respective lives and pelagic adventures. He has some insight into what IÕve been up against back home. At the end of the trip he tells me I have a standing invitation to come on as many trips as I want with him-gratis.

A single COOKÕS PETREL is the only addition to the dayÕs list as compared to yesterday.

In the afternoon we take a walk along the pebbly beach next to Whale Watch Kaikoura and spot several BANDED DOTTERELS.

Dec. 10 Travel to Methven.

The only real birding we do this day is at St. AnneÕs Lagoon where we find many NZ SCAUP* and stumble upon a small flock of introduced CAPE BARREN GOOSE.

 

Dec. 11 Methven to Twizel/Mt. Cook

This day is perhaps the most scenic of the trip. We stop at the lovely turquoise Lake Tekapo. Enjoy the inflorescent roadsides of Russel Lupine and glaciated peaks shrouded in cloud. ItÕs all good. (a typical NZ expression).

On the road into the park from Highway 8 we stop at the visitor center at Glentanner.

ŅHello, IÕm looking for Black Stilts, Ņ I inquire at the desk.

The woman at the desk points to a gate just up the road just past the airstrip and tells me to pull in there and have a look around, there might be some there.

IÕve no sooner set the scope up when I look across the way and there are two stilts side by side. One is a PIED and the other a full BLACK STILT*. Geez, I thought that finding one of the rarest birds in the world would have proved more difficult! We approach the pair to get a photo and then on the way back to the car Laura says, ŅWhatÕs that little bird there?Ó

ItÕs a NEW ZEALAND PIPIT*!

These were two great birds in what I have to say this is one of the most spectacular settings IÕve ever had the opportunity to bird.

We spend the night in Twizel but wish we had booked a room at Mt. Cook instead.

Dec. 12 Twizel to Queenstown

Early in the morning we depart. Along the roadsides we pass braided river beds and enjoy our best looks so far of BLACK-FRONTED TERNS*. We also see many WILD TURKEYS in the pastures.

We stop for coffee in the lovely little town of Wanaka and then head for Haast Pass in Mt. Aspiring National Park. We make a bathroom stop along Lake Wanaka and find our first CRESTED GREBES (and sandflies!) but as we continue up into the mountains the weather deteriorates rapidly, soon it is raining buckets. I had hopes of finding Yellowheads at that locale but settle for introduced YELLOWHAMMERS which are quite numerous on the South Island.

A nice lunch back in Wanaka overlooking the lake is the consolation prize.

We take the back way into Queenstown via Cardrona Rd. After we settle into our hotel a walk along Lake Wakatipu finds several NEW ZEALAND SCAUP. The remainder of the day and much of the rest is spent on typical tourist activities around Queenstown and Arrowtown.

Dec. 13 Travel day Queenstown to Te Anau

Dec. 14 Te Anau to Milford Sound

Today is the day to visit the world renowned Milford Sound which I remember first seeing in National Geographic Magazine in my youth. There are several birding locations and target birds for today so we leave at first light.

Our first stop is at Ministry of Works depot just before Knobbs Flat. This is reputed to be a good spot for the elusive Yellowhead. I marvel at the spongy moss underfoot as I follow a narrow trail behind the cluster of buildings. I do see some FANTAILS and TOMTITS but not much else

The Lake Gunn trail at Cascade Creek was one of my favorite land birding sites on our trip. In a word-primeval. We are in Fjordland National Park now and everything is covered in moss. The birding is initially slow but then we hear a tittering up in the canopy. Sounds a lot like the Yellowheads on the CD we have but further scrutiny reveals a flock of NZ BROWN CREEPER*.

More commotion rivets my attention to a group of YELLOW-FRONTED PARAKEETS* which are cooperative enough to allow me to videotape them.

Continuing on our way our next stop is at The Divide and here we see our first KEAS* flying about, high in the trees along the ridge. Admittedly these are not the best looks but that will soon change as upon our arrival at the Homer Tunnel there is a welcoming committee of five more KEAS.

Two of them are comically hopping at the edge of the parking area. Two more are on top of a car parked in front of us doing their best to twist the carÕs aerial antenna into the shape of a pretzel.

The fifth? Well itÕs on top of our car!

Kea, Milford Sound Dec. 14

I climb out of our vehicle and the only alpine parrot in the world is completely nonplussed. When I bend down to grab my camera I feel something on my head and am appalled to discover the Kea is trying to pull the button off the top of my baseball cap. Talk about brazen!

Laura looks at me like IÕm crazy when I tell her to protect the car from the Keas whilst I take a short walk over to the scree to look for Rock Wren. While I search in vain I look over to see that there are now four giant brown parrots with huge bills on the roof of our car probing the gaps in the doors. LauraÕs frantic waving is having virtually no effect. She begins looking impatient so I head back to the car, taking a dip on the Rock Wren but preserving marital bliss.

On the other side of the Homer Tunnel we make the descent to Milford Sound enjoying the truly magnificent scenery despite the downpour. Our tour is a rainy one. No real surprise there as this is one of the rainiest places on the planet. Mitre Peak is obscured by clouds unfortunately. The rain hinders the view but propels the waterfalls that seem to be everywhere with the larger ones quite impressive.

Our timing is a bit off to see the hoped for Fjordland Crested Penguins. TheyÕve apparently finished with the nesting for the year. I do luck out when we exit the sound and venture a short ways out into the Tasman Sea. I spot a bird sitting on the water and look at it through my bins to see it is a SOOTY SHEARWATER when a FJORDLAND CRESTED PENGUIN* surfaces just behind it. The look is brief but sufficient.

Back at the car park at Milford we find two WEKAS* seeking shelter from the downpour under one of the cars. The rains make stopping again for the Rock Wrens at Homer Tunnel a futile prospect.

 

Dec. 15 Te Anau to Stewart Island

We rise early to hit the road. We need to make it to Bluff to catch the 9:30 ferry. IÕm a little concerned about the Foveaux Straight crossing. IÕve heard some tales and read some trip reports that made it sound epic. Laura doesnÕt always do well on boats but she is in luck today. The straights are as calm as a millpond thus the seabirding is a bit on the slow side. SOOTY SHEARWATERS, LITTLE BLUE PENGUINS and COMMON DIVING-PETRELS are all I spot. On a rocky islet just offshore of Oban are 5 BROWN SKUAS. We also see a single BOTTLENOSE DOLPHIN.

Laura isnÕt feeling well so she stays at the Bay Motel while I take a water taxi over to Ulva Island. Next to Tiri this was my favorite land birding of the whole trip. As soon as I enter the forest from the landing a flock of noisy KAKAS* accost me from the trees. IÕve been looking to see New ZealandÕs other large parrot the entire trip and so I am very pleased.

Further down the trail through the ferns and tall trees I find a friendly NEW ZEALAND ROBIN* of the Stewart Island race, TOMTIT*, BROWN CREEPER*, BELLBIRD*, SADDLEBACK*, RED-FRONTED PARAKEET* and more TUIS* than IÕve seen anywhere.

Gentle grunts in the foliage at the trailside turn out to be 3 WEKAS* probing the mossy forest floor. I spend 3 ½ hours walking the trails but never do succeed in finding any Yellowheads.

Back in Oban I have the best fish and chips of the trip at the pub. Blue cod is hard to beat. I take a late nap from 7-8 then head down to the dock to meet Phillip Smith and a group of seven others to look for Kiwi.

A short while later, under the cover of darkness, we land on another island and cross over to the beach on the other side and stumble directly into a SOUTHERN BROWN KIWI*. One of our group zips up his jacket (even though Phil has cautioned us not to do so) and the Kiwi runs away at a remarkable speed. Phil is perturbed with us but within minutes the bird returns and is soon sniffing the toes of our shoes. These birds are every bit as bizarre as I had imagined.

We spend another hour or so walking up and down the beach but that first Kiwi is the only Kiwi on the beach this evening. We do stumble across another on our way back to the boat but only a few of us get to see it.

As we are walking back to the boat we hear a MOREPORK in the distance and Jaris from Namibia calls back to it. The owl approaches closer and closer. We know what tree it is in but canÕt get the eyeshine with our flashlights. I crawl back into bed at 1:30 am. ItÕs been a long day but too much fun!

Dec. 16 Stewart Island Pelagic

No rest for the weary. I head back down to the dock at 7:30 to meet Colin Hopkins of Aurora Charters for a half day pelagic. In addition to myself there is a family of four on board. After leaving the dock Colin heads to a nearby cove where a pair of FJORDLAND CRESTED PENGUINS are found. They enter the water as the boat approaches and are joined by a LITTLE BLUE PENGUIN for comparison.

Moving toward the Muttonbird Islands we see many SOOTY SHEARWATERS around. No surprise, they nest on these islands and are harvested here. Muttonbird being the name the locals know them by. Colin is a fifth generation Stewart Islander and he tells me when his kids come to visit from their faraway homes it is muttonbird they ask for. To them that is home cooking. Colin says theyÕre best boiled five times after being preserved in salt.

Just behind a small rookery of New Zealand Fur Seals Colin spots a single YELLOW-EYED PENGUIN hauled out on the rocks and a stop at another rocky outcrop turns up a few BROWN SKUAS. On another small island we find many STEWART ISLAND SHAGS.

SALVINÕS ALBATROSS are numerous but we see only a single COOKÕS PETREL and FAIRY PRION. There are loads of CAPE PIGEONS and COMMON DIVING PETRELS about. Finally as we reach the far point of our outing where there is a convergence our only BULLERÕS ALBATROSS approaches the boat. IÕm ecstatic, this makes my twelfth albatross species for the year! Colin is a bit perplexed though, apparently this spot is usually quite busy with seabirds but not today. http://www.auroracharters.co.nz/

Buller's Albatross, Stewart Island Dec. 16

 

I intended to revisit Ulva Island but we get in later in the afternoon than I had anticipated and to be honest I really want to take a nap. The Yellowheads will go unseen. The other avian highlight of the day is a KAKA that lands on the railing of our deck and peers into the window at us.

In the evening we dine at the Church Hill Cafe where I have the opportunity to try Muttonbird. It is roasted and stuffed and tastes like a combination of liver and sardines. It is something I think that IÕll only have once.

Dec. 17 Stewart Island to Omaru

We catch the first ferry in the morning back to Bluff. It is a bit blustery so the seabirding is better: FAIRY PRION, SALVINÕS ALBATROSS, COMMON DIVING PETREL, COOKÕS PETREL, LITTLE BLUE PENGUIN but sadly no Mottled Petrels. The only new bird I see is a single BROAD-BILLED PRION.

Just before reaching Bluff we spot the giant vertical dorsal of a single male ORCA/KILLER WHALE right next to the shoreline.

The rains come with a vengeance. It is just as well. We have a long drive to Omaru and Laura is still feeling under the weather. Fortunately I have seen both LITTLE BLUE and YELLOW-EYED PENGUINS. We could visit the colonies here in Omaru but the rain is so intense we opt not to.

Dec. 18 Omaru to Akaroa

Well the birding is pretty much wrapped up for this trip but there is still one marine mammal IÕd like to see. HECTORÕS DOLPHIN is the smallest and one of the rarest in the world but in Akaroa you can swim with them. I want to get some photos and video of them so I go along as a passenger to watch.

These little dolphins turn out to be quite gregarious in approaching the swimmers off the back of the boat. IÕm glad IÕm in the boat because the people in the water canÕt really see them as well.

The white-fippered race of LITTLE BLUE PENGUINS can also be found here. We both feel that Akaroa was one of the most beautiful little towns we visited in all of NZ.

Dec. 19 Fly home via Christchurch and Auckland

 

Resources:

 

I was able to borrow a copy of Birds of New Zealand/Locality Guide by Stuart Chambers and found it to be quite helpful but not entirely accurate or up to date.

The Hand Guide to the Birds of New Zealand by Robertson, Heather and Onley

I also perused many trip reports online and this one by Greg Baker was particularly helpful:

http://www.surfbirds.com/trip_report.php?id=1090

I was also able to borrow the CD of Birds of New Zealand which I loaded on my iPod

Dips: In addition NZ Storm-petrel, Rock Wren and Yellowhead I never ran across either the Shining or Long-tailed Cuckoo. I decided to forego the expense for the single tick of the King Shag at Queen Charlotte Sound. Mottled Petrel was missed at Stewart Island. I also missed Royal Spoonbill.

Photos:

http://www.pbase.com/wolfbird/new_zealand_birds

http://www.pbase.com/wolfbird/new_zealand_seabirds

Species seen:

109

Brown Kiwi        Apteryx mantelli

Fiordland Crested Penguin        Eudyptes pachyrhynchus

Yellow-eyed Penguin         Megadyptes antipodes

New Zealand Grebe   Poliocephalus rufopectus

Southern Royal Albatross Diomedea epomophora

Northern Royal Albatross  Diomedea sanfordi

Antipodean Albatross        Diomedea antipodensis

Wandering Albatross         Diomedea exulans

Buller's Mollymawk   Thalassarche bulleri

Shy Albatross   Thalassarche cauta

White-capped Mollymawk Thalassarche steadi

Salvin's Mollymawk   Thalassarche salvini

Black-browed Albatross    Thalassarche melanophris

Campbell Islands Mollymawk     Thalassarche impavida

Southern Giant Petrel        Macronectes giganteus

Northern Giant Petrel         Macronectes halli

Great-winged Petrel  Pterodroma macroptera

Cook's Petrel     Pterodroma cookii

Broad-billed Prion     Pachyptila vittata

Fairy Prion         Pachyptila turtur

Parkinson's Petrel     Procellaria parkinsoni

Westland Petrel         Procellaria westlandica

Flesh-footed Shearwater   Puffinus carneipes

Buller's Shearwater   Puffinus bulleri

Sooty Shearwater      Puffinus griseus

Fluttering Shearwater        Puffinus gavia

Hutton's Shearwater  Puffinus huttoni

Little Shearwater       Puffinus assimilis

Common Diving-Petrel       Pelecanoides urinatrix

White-faced Storm-Petrel   Pelagodroma marina

Australasian Gannet Morus serrator

Little Black Cormorant       Phalacrocorax sulcirostris

Great Cormorant        Phalacrocorax carbo

Pied Cormorant Phalacrocorax varius

Stewart Island Shag

Spotted Shag    Phalacrocorax punctatus

Little Pied Cormorant         Phalacrocorax melanoleucos

White-faced Egret      Egretta novaehollandiae

Mute Swan        Cygnus olor

Black Swan       Cygnus atratus

Canada Goose  Branta canadensis

Cape Barren Goose   Cereopsis novaehollandiae

Paradise Shelduck    Tadorna variegata

Blue Duck Hymenolaimus malachorhynchos

Gray Teal  Anas gracilis

Mallard      Anas platyrhynchos

Pacific Black Duck    Anas superciliosa

Australasian Shoveler        Anas rhynchotis

New Zealand Scaup  Aythya novaeseelandiae

Swamp Marsh Harrier         Circus approximans

New Zealand Falcon Falco novaeseelandiae

California Quail Lophortyx californicus

Wild Turkey       Meleagris gallopavo

New Zealand Quail    Coturnix novaezelandiae

Weka         Gallirallus australis

Purple Swamphen     Porphyrio porphyrio

Takahe      Porphyrio mantelli

Eurasian Coot   Fulica atra

South Island Oystercatcher       Haematopus finschi

Variable Oystercatcher      Haematopus unicolor

White-headed Stilt     Himantopus leucocephalus

Black Stilt Himantopus novaezelandiae

Masked Lapwing       Vanellus miles

New Zealand Plover  Charadrius obscurus

Double-banded Plover       Charadrius bicinctus

Wrybill      Anarhynchus frontalis

Bar-tailed Godwit      Limosa lapponica

Red Knot  Calidris canutus

Sharp-tailed Sandpiper      Calidris acuminata

Brown Skua       Stercorarius lonnbergi

Pomarine Jaeger        Stercorarius pomarinus

White-fronted Tern    Sterna striata

Australian Fairy Tern         Sterna nereis

Black-fronted Tern    Sterna albostriata

New Zealand Fruit-Pigeon Hemiphaga novaeseelandiae

New Zealand Kaka     Nestor meridionalis

Kea   Nestor notabilis

Eastern Rosella         Platycercus eximius

Red-fronted Parakeet         Cyanoramphus novaezelandiae

Yellow-fronted Parakeet    Cyanoramphus auriceps

Morepork  Ninox novaeseelandiae

Sacred Kingfisher      Todiramphus sanctus

Rifleman   Acanthisitta chloris

Sky Lark   Alauda arvensis

Welcome Swallow      Hirundo neoxena

New Zealand Pipit     Anthus novaeseelandiae

Eurasian Blackbird    Turdus merula

Common Song Thrush       Turdus philomelos

New Zealand Fernbird        Megalurus punctatus

New Zealand Gray Gerygone     Gerygone igata

Whitehead         Mohoua albicilla

New Zealand Brown Creeper      Finschia novaeseelandiae

New Zealand Fantail Rhipidura fuliginosa

New Zealand Tomtit  Petroica macrocephala

New Zealand Robin   Petroica australis

Silvereye   Zosterops lateralis

Stitchbird Notiomystis cincta

New Zealand Bellbird         Anthornis melanura

Tui    Prosthemadera novaeseelandiae

Kokako     Callaeas cinerea

Saddleback       Callaeas carunculatus

Australasian Magpie Gymnorhina tibicen

Common Myna  Acridotheres tristis

European Starling     Sturnus vulgaris

Yellowhammer  Emberiza citrinella

Common Chaffinch   Fringilla coelebs

European Greenfinch         Carduelis chloris

European Goldfinch  Carduelis carduelis

Common Redpoll       Acanthis flammea

House Sparrow Passer domesticus